Crazy Sexy Adoption! (We love Kris Carr.)

The uber-fabulous Kris Carr, whose story was told in the documentary Crazy Sexy Cancer (which she wrote and directed,KrisCarr too) is a woman on a mission to defeat disease and educate people how to be their healthiest.  Through her inspiring books, Crazy Sexy Cancer Tips and Crazy Sexy Cancer Survivor, and her amazing blog, Crazy Sexy Life she’s training an army of “wellness warriors” to achieve radiant health…and to have a great time while doing it.

In her most recent vlog, Kris–and her adorable adopted pooch Lola–tout pet adoption (and give Adopt-a-Pet.com a huge shout-out!) as a component of a healthier life.  How does adopting a pet make you healthier?  Check out her video.  While you’re there, leave a comment and let Kris know you support pet adoption, too!

Creating a Dog-Friendly Backyard

barkbusters-logo Creating a dog-friendly backyard brings many benefits such as the dog’s safety, prevention of boredom and attendant misbehaviors, exercise, and enjoyment of nature. Remember, though, that while letting your dog have a free romp in your yard keeps him exercised, active and happy, the yard should be used only as a temporary retreat. Nothing can replace the time you spend with your furry pal to enhance your relationship and seal your special bond.

Dogs kept in a bland backyard all day are far more likely to misbehave with chewing, digging, excessive barking, pacing along the fence, or fence fighting with other dogs. Adapting your yard to make it more comfortable and appealing to your dog will go a long way toward making for a more contented, relaxed canine companion.

Poisonous Ingestibles

Dogs which are bored or hungry will be tempted to eat anything they find in your yard, including plants or flowers. Dogs can become extremely ill or even die from eating poisonous plants. Ask your vet for a list of plants to avoid. To help prevent your dog from eating plants, don’t garden with him present — otherwise he may conclude that playing with plants and digging are acceptable activities.

Mulch can also be problematic. Many types of mulch are toxic, especially cocoa bean mulch. Large-size wood mulch can harm your dog if he chews on it, creating wood splinters that could lodge in his mouth or stomach.

Don’t leave out any products meant for outdoor use where your pet can get into them. This includes lawn chemicals like fertilizers and weed killers, antifreeze, pesticides, and outdoor grilling supplies like charcoal and lighter fluid.

Chewing

Dogs chew for various reasons, such as stress, boredom, teething or diet deficiency. There are different things you can try to prevent this behavior, depending on your dog and what he is chewing. The easiest way to stop your dog from chewing is to have the item itself give the correction by applying a foul-tasting product such as Bitter Apple spray, citronella or hot chili sauce to it. However, since dogs’ tastes vary, you’ll need to experiment to see what works best.

Keep your dog entertained by providing high-quality puzzle toys that reward him with treats, such as the Buster Cube® and KONG®. Every few days, rotate what toys are available to him, so that he has something new and fun to hold his interest.

Never give your dog old shoes or clothing items to chew, as he may not distinguish between these old items and new ones. Also be aware that plastic drink bottles may inadvertently teach your dog that plastic is okay to chew, which means plastic planters, hoses and garden furniture become likely targets for his teeth.

Water

Water is always essential to your pooch, so be sure the yard includes a large water bowl filled with fresh water in all seasons.

If you choose to incorporate a water feature such as a small pond, be sure to use the kind which circulates water to help avoid mosquitoes. Still-water ponds need chemical additives to kill the larvae that will grow there, and is unhealthy for household pets.

If you have a swimming pool, consider constructing a barrier to prevent accidents. Or, teach your dog to swim and show him where to exit the pool.

Shade

While being outside can make for a happy dog, being stuck in the blazing sun is unhealthy. Create a cool spot for your pooch by scraping an indented area in a shady place where he can relax in comfort. Without such a place, your dog may create his own spot in an area not of your choosing.

Digging

Digging is a normal behavior for dogs. They dig in search of food, to investigate sounds and smells, to improve their shelter, or to escape. Digging can be triggered by boredom, separation anxiety, chasing rodents or bugs, and/or a nutritional deficiency. The reason for the digging must be determined before a possible training solution can be tried. A qualified dog behavioral therapist such as a Bark Busters trainer can help you with this tricky behavioral issue.

Scratching at Back Door

A dog will scratch at the back door because all the good, fun stuff is kept inside – including you. Give your dog a bone or scatter food (see below) when you put him outside. Whether he is outside or inside, he must know that he is always in safe territory with an abundance of food.

Scatter food appeals to a dog’s natural instinct to forage. Dogs enjoy looking for food on the ground and will literally spend hours doing so. Scatter a variety of foods — bits of raw vegetables, dog kibble, and other foods that won’t attract wasps — around the yard when you leave. Try hiding a few treats so your dog spends extra time looking for them.

If your dog scratches at the door and cries to come in, ignore him. Let him in only when he stops. If he begins to stress, correct him from inside the house. Do not go out.

Fences and Gates

A fence helps to keep your dog safely on your property and out of harm’s way. If your yard has a traditional fence (chain link or wood), be sure all gates latch correctly each time they are closed. Check the fence for holes or other openings. If there are gaps, place bricks or large stones in front of the holes, otherwise your pet might find a way out of the yard.

Because some homeowner’s associations do not allow traditional fences, a popular alternative is the electronic or “invisible” dog fence. Choosing this type of barrier has many benefits – it keeps the landscape tidy — as well as drawbacks — while the fence may keep your pet in, it doesn’t keep other animals or people out.

Maintaining the Yard

Maintain the yard’s cleanliness by regularly picking up after your dog. Some dogs can be trained to use one area for toileting. While the nitrogen in dog urine can be very hard on lawns, watering the area after the dog has urinated can help to minimize damage.

Keep your dog (and anyone else) off the lawn after any yard treatments — fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides – until the chemicals have dried completely.

Also, be careful of metal lawn edging. Metal edging invites great risk of your dog stepping on it and seriously cutting his paw.

Dog Houses

If your dog is kept outside, make sure he has shelter in which to get out of the weather. Dogs are more relaxed when they are covered and in familiar surroundings. Place the dog house next to your family’s house so that your dog feels like it is an extension of the larger “den.” Provide a blanket or other comfy bedding, and be sure he has access to fresh water.

Choose a house made of a naturally rot-resistant material such as plastic or red cedar, but do not use pressure-treated wood, which can contain arsenic. Use rust-proof galvanized nails and screws.

The house should be raised from the ground to insulate the dog from moisture and chills, and should be large enough for him to comfortably turn around but small enough to retain his body heat. In colder climates, your dog may appreciate a heated dog house, whether created by a dog house heater or a solar panel.

Training Your Dog Can Save Your Yard Too!

Training your dog correctly and regularly will keep him mentally stimulated and help to decrease his overall level of stress. Remember, you can correct your dog for digging, barking, scratching at the door, etc., only if you catch him in the act; correcting after the event is pointless.

A qualified dog behavioral therapist such as a Bark Busters trainer can help you discover the source of the reasons for your dog’s outdoor misbehaviors and can provide ways to correct the problems. Your dog and your family will be happier for it!

Liam Crowe is the CEO and grand master dog behavioral therapist of Bark Busters USA (www.BarkBusters.com), the world’s largest dog training company. Since inception, over 500,000 dogs have been trained worldwide using Bark Busters’ dog-friendly, natural methods, which focus on fostering a positive relationship between owner and dog to establish a lasting emotional bond based on respect and trust.

Find a Dog Trainer – http://www.barkbusters.com/page.cfm/ID/50/FetchATrainer
Dog Behavior Quiz – http://www.barkbusters.com/page.cfm/ID/3/BehaviorialQuiz

Adopt-a-Pet.com Encourages Department of Homeland Security to Consider Recruiting Shelter Dogs for Sniffer Duty, Offers Help

North America’s largest non-profit pet-adoption web service, Adopt-a-Pet.com, expressed hope today that the U.S. Department of Homeland Security would include qualified shelter dogs in its plan to add 3,000 new sniffer canines to its ranks, and offered to head up a nationwide search on behalf of the Department.

Washington, DC (PRWEB) July 23, 2010

North America’s largest non-profit pet-adoption web service, Adopt-a-Pet.com, expressed hope today that the U.S. Department of Homeland Security would include qualified shelter dogs in its plan to add 3,000 new sniffer canines to its ranks, and offered to head up a nationwide search on behalf of the Department.

Commenting on the Los Angeles Times story, which outlines the Department’s plans to purchase 3,000 additional sniffer dogs at an average cost of $4,535 each, Adopt-a-Pet.com executive director Abbie Moore said, “There are thousands of wonderful, energetic, and highly-trainable dogs in U.S. animal shelters who would be perfect for the Department of Homeland Security’s current needs. In addition to saving 3,000 worthy lives, recruiting shelter dogs makes fiscal sense and stands to save taxpayers well over $1 million. I can’t think of a downside to adopting versus buying these dogs. It’s the humane and prudent thing to do.”

The Department of Homeland security has expressed a preference for Labrador retrievers, golden retrievers, German shepherd dogs, and Dutch shepherds. A search of the Adopt-a-Pet.com site alone reveals over 4,000 purebred adoptable dogs matching that criteria, and another 12,000 qualified mixed-breed shepherds and retrievers. Says Moore, “We at Adopt-a-Pet.com would be honored to assist the Department of Homeland Security in locating and screening potential canine candidates in animal shelters nationwide.”

Help my cat stopped using the litterbox!

Cat Sniffing LitterboxOne of the most frustrating behaviors for a cat owner is litterbox issues. If only cats could talk to tell us why they weren’t using their litterbox! There are so many reasons cats stop or won’t use their litterbox 100% of the time, it can take some detective work to figure out the reason or reasons. This blog article will give you a step-by-step process to figure out why and fix the problem. Myself and many cat owners I know have personally used these steps to solve litterbox problems with many cats, from young kittens to seniors. Litterbox issues are one of the main reasons cats are surrendered to shelters, but often it doesn’t have to be that way. To make these steps easier to understand, I’ll call your litterbox-avoiding cat Kitty.

PLEASE NOTE!!

This article was originally published in 2010. Since then, with two more years of using these steps, we tweaked them for slightly FASTER and easier (on both you and your cat) fixing of litterbox problems. So…

Click here for our current improved steps to help your cat litterbox issues!

Our original steps still do work! We’ve kept them here for archival purpose:

Cats can be sensitive and effected by your mood. They might not show it in a way you understand, but if you are stressed or unhappy when your are cleaning their litterbox, Kitty will pick up on that and may think that’s a reason to avoid the litterbox! Can you change your litterbox habits? Sometimes buying a pretty new litterbox and scented litter makes you feel better, and then “miraculously” your cat will start using it again! Also, as your Kitty gets back on track, don’t forget to lavishly praise Kitty each time they get it right, and reward him or her with their favorite treat.

Step 1.
The easiest and instant thing you can try is a second, brand new litterbox with new litter in a new location. If possible, remove any items they went on outside the box (carpets, etc), clean the area with an enzyme pet-cleaner, and keep them way from that area by covering it with a plant, coffe table, or best yet, close them out of that room.

Sometimes the new location is not where you want the litterbox, but you may have to start with it there, and try gradually (one foot a day) move it back to where you want it located. Many cats prefer scented (or unscented) clay litter, or even potting soil or sandy dirt. Nothing fancy! There is even a litter product called “Cat Attract” that is specially scented to attract cats to use it, and it worked instantly for my friends new foster cat who was peeing on all her dog’s beds. But I’ve had the same instant “fix” with regular clay clumping litter. I prefer the all-natural litters for the health of my cats, but some cats just don’t like them!

Step 2.
If the brand new box, litter & location didn’t fix your problem in one day, next you should take Kitty to your vet ASAP to rule out any medical causes. Often times cats will stop using their box when something is medically wrong and they aren’t feeling well. Once you’ve ruled out a medical problem, you can continue the detective work it takes to find out what is the problem, and then be able to fix it! Here are the steps most vets will recommend:

1. Your vet does a urinalysis to check for infection.

2. Your vet does for urine CULTURE for elevated bacteria.

3. While you’re waiting for the culture test results (they can take up to a week) confine Kitty in your bathroom with their litterbox, bed, food water. Kitty will likely not be happy being locked in the bathroom, but this step is essential, and it is only for  a week – by comparison, if you boarded your cat at the vet, they would be kept in a kennel smaller than most bathrooms.

4. Make sure the box is REALLY clean. Dump all the litter out, scrub it with a cat enzyme cleaner (not an ammonia product!), start with 100% fresh new litter.

If Kitty’s two test results both come back negative, and the vet says Kitty is healthy, then see if Step 3a or 3b applies to your cat…

Step 3a. Kitty did NOT use the box while confined (skip to 3b if he did)

Kitty may not like the type of litter, the depth of litter, or the style of litterbox. Try one of these changes for a couple of days, then try another one if that didn’t work. Yes, this takes a while, but there are so many options! In this order, try:

  1. A brand new litter box – as big as possible, uncovered, with the lowest sides possible.
  2. A different type of litter – unscented, clay, pine, clumping, etc.
  3. Use plain dirt. Potting soil is often irresistible.
  4. A different depth of litter (shallower, deeper).

Some cats have a painful association with going inside a box. So if all the above fails, cover the floor with newspaper-  every square inch! If Kitty was going in the tub, put the newspaper in there. Most cats will go in one spot on the floor. Gradually pick up the newspaper where the cat is not going (one or two sheets removed a day). When you are down to two sheets where Kitty is going regularly, take a sheet that has some urine on it and put it on top of a flat piece of cardboard box, or on a cookie tray.

Now there should be newspaper only on top of the box/tray, and none on the floor. If Kitty continues to go on the paper on the box/tray, try a brand new low-sided uncovered litterbox (so it won’t smell anything like litter) in the same spot, and put some urine scented newspaper in it. Then the next day, try putting a handful of a new kind of litter in it, that doesn’t smell anything like their old litter. So if they were using clay litter, try the pine dust or ground up corn litter. Often with baby steps you can have them graduate back up to a real litterbox with litter, but sometimes you may have to stick to newspaper or dirt. Its better than your laundry basket! If at any point during the re-introduction process they revert to going on the uncovered floor, do not panic. An accident or two may happen. But if it’s more than once or twice, you should take a few steps back and proceed more slowly. If the cat was really traumatized, it can take weeks. But a few weeks in a bathroom, while not fun, is worth the chance of getting your cat back to using his litterbox (and it’s a lot nicer than returning your cat to the shelter).

Step 3b. Kitty DID use the box while confined

  • Location issue. If that is not where you had the litterboxes before, try letting the cat out and leaving the box in the bathroom. If they continue to use the box there, that means they did not like the other non-bathroom locations. If you don’t want the box in the bathroom, try a 2nd box in other new locations (not the old location) until they start using the 2nd box, then take up the bathroom box.
  • Stress. He could be upset over a change in his routine, by someone or something new in the house, or something you can’t figure out! Whatever the cause, you can try these three stress-fixers:
    1. Daily dose of the homeopathic remedy Rescue Remedy, available in most health food stores (it’s for people too) and some pet stores. Effects are immediate.
    2. A spray on or plugin that has helped many litterbox-avoiding cats is Feliway www.feliway.com
    3. Your vet can prescribe Kitty the cat version of prozac while you “retrain” them to use the box. This generally takes a couple of weeks to take full effect.
  • Stress over your absence. If he only does it while you are gone, it might be your absence that is causing the stress. The cat may need bathroom time (close him in the bathroom with a litter box, food, water and a bed) even if you only go out for five minutes. Also try the remedies in the above ‘stress’ bullet point above.
  • Cleanliness. Your old litterbox may not have been kept clean enough for him. Continue to keep the box super clean, with weekly scrubbing.What are you cleaning up with?  If the old smell is not removed, he may continue to go on that spot. There are articles and articles on getting cat urine smell out of household items – a lot of finding one that works for your cat is trial and error. We’ve hear that a biological laundry detergent with water soaking the area for 24 hours and then flushing it can remove it. With carpets, often the only solution is to remove them. Clean all the areas where your cat has gone and then rub a soft cloth over his cheeks, then rub the cloth where he went to the bathroom. This spread the cat’s pheromones and scent onto that surface, and should stop your cat from feeling the need to put them there himself.
  • Smell. There may have been something the cat smelled it was trying to mark or cover up. If the cat is urinating in a particular place it could be new smells it feels must be covered up, such as a garbage bin, a door leading to the outside, laundry, a new bag of groceries, even a new family moving in next door whose smells are now coming into your home. If this is the case, you can either wait it out, confining the cat to a smaller room where the urinating will not be as much of a problem (a bathroom), or medication from your vet might help until he gets used to the change (a few months) or is confident his old routine is established.
  • Territory. Does Kitty go on the door, or the rug by the door?  It could be territorial marking. Try blocking off where Kitty can see/hear/smell any other cats or dogs outside.

Step 4.
If you’ve tried the first 3 steps without success

With patience, deductive powers and our suggestions, we hope your cat will be using his litterbox very soon!
Learn more about Jennifer, our blog author at Google+

Keep Your Pet Safe this Summer

Black-Lab I’ll never forget the first time I had to take care of a dog for an extended period of time. My younger brother suffered from bad allergies, so we never had one growing up, and thus I never had the chance to learn about proper pet care. Sure I’d read a few Web sites and had received some tips from friends, but there’s no substitute for real experience. I’ve never been more nervous than I was on that first walk, especially after realizing that my new buddy Porter liked to growl and bark at every other dog he saw on the street. Apparently he liked to assert his dominance.

It was a long month, but by the end of it I was sad to give Porter back to his owners. After taking the time to read up on proper pet care and soliciting even more advice and tips from my dog-loving friends, I was finally starting to feel comfortable and truly enjoy spending time with the big guy. Since then I’ve pet-sat many times for a variety of different dogs, cats, fish and what have you. But I’ve never forgotten some of the important tips I learned that first month – especially in regards to keeping your pet safe from the hot summer sun.

Below are some of the most important tips I learned about proper summer pet care, all of which I still follow today.

  • Keep them hydrated. Just as water is important for you and me in the hot summer sun, it’s also vital for your pets. Make sure they have access to fresh water – both inside and out. Keeping them hydrated will not only help to cool them down, it can also help to prevent heat-related problems, including heat exhaustion and even the more serious heat stroke.
  • Take frequent, shorter walks. Rather than one long walk every day, take your pet on several shorter walks on hot days. This allows them to still get the proper exercise they need while also making sure they don’t overheat in the sun. Overexertion is one of the biggest causes f heat-related illnesses in pets. Shorter, more frequent walks will help prevent this, and can also help to keep you fresh as well. If possible, try to time your walks for early morning or evening hours when the sun is less intense.
  • Don’t leave your pet in the car. We’ve all been tempted to take our dogs along with us on an errand or two, but you should never leave your pet alone in the car on a hot summer day. Even with the windows down, the inside of your car can reach a scorching 120 degrees. You wouldn’t leave your pet in the oven – at least not while it’s on – so don’t leave them in your car.
  • Watch for heat-related issues. Just like you, your pet can suffer from both heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Keep an eye out for the different symptoms of exhaustion and heat stroke so you can be ready in case of an emergency. The most common signs include panting, staring, anxiety, rapid pulse, vomiting and collapsing. If you think your pet might be suffering from a serious heat-related illness, contact a veterinarian immediately. You should also attempt to lower your pet’s body temperature by applying cool – but not cold – towels to the chest and neck area.
  • Be aware in crowded areas. While it might seem fun and harmless at first, it is usually not a good idea to take your pet with you to a crowded summer party or event. This can include concerts, Fourth of July parties and fireworks shows. Loud noises and stress associated with the large crowds can be dangerous for your pets when combined with the summer heat. If you do take your pets with you, keep an eye on them and make sure they are tagged and leashed at all times.

Mike Tennant is a freelance writer, columnist and dog lover from Orange County. Mike currently works with Air Conditioner Home as a content developer to help consumers make the right decision when looking for the best portable air conditioner.

Daycare Can Enhance Your Adopted Dog’s Social Skills

daycare+for+adopted+pets This is a guest post, from The Doggie Den in Northborough, MA. If you’ve adopted a dog in need of a forever home, CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve done a wonderful thing. Adopted dogs come from all kinds of backgrounds, sometimes with limited “social skills” development. Foster homes may have provided the opportunity to play with a permanent canine family member, your new pet may have occasionally romped in a dog park, or your pup may have been crated or caged a good percentage of the time. None of those situations allows a pup to meet other dogs and new people under the skilled supervision of dog professionals.

In fact, dogs often acquire dangerous habits when left to play unsupervised, like getting what they want through dominance or aggression. It’s a bit like a school yard: if there are no adults around some kids turn into bullies. Similarly, dogs with limited social skills tend to jump up when meeting a new person and to try to monopolize that person for themselves.

The role of a dog play attendant is to interrupt behaviors that aren’t acceptable, just like on a kids’ playground. With dogs, though, the line between excitement and aggression is quite thin. Rambunctious play easily explodes into a fight – it’s just the nature of the beast. In the wild, dogs use play to practice their hunting skills, and there’s some of that predatory instinct left in pet dogs. But trained dog attendants know when to step in between pups who are overly excited before any aggression shows up. The pups get affectionate praise for turning down the intensity of their play, and are separated (and possibly temporarily crated) if they insist on being rough with each other.

The best environment for your dog to play safely with other dogs and to meet new people is a doggie daycare. Good doggie daycares hire and train employees with a view to creating just the right environment for maximum fun and minimum risk. There are rules for meeting a new person, like not jumping up on him or her. Dogs learn to say hello by wagging their tail and looking at the new person with a doggie “smile”. Pushing or scaring other dogs away in order to be first in line for attention leads to a “time out” rather than to affectionate attention; as does mounting another dog, excessive barking or trying to monopolize all of the available toys (this is called “resource guarding”). Appropriate play leads to praise and cuddles and games of fetch with the human supervisor.

So taking your adopted pet to a good daycare a couple of times a week has the benefit of improving his or her social skills, which makes him/ her lots of fun to have around. Because the dog has a life outside your home, he/ she will also acquire self confidence. Pup will feel fine about being away from family for the day; and even better about being picked up at night! And the big plus for us owners is that after a hard day at work, we have an exhausted pup who just wants to curl up next to you in the evening. Of course, it’s important to check out a daycare before leaving your dog there. Get references from people who are or have been longtime customers. Ask around to see if dog owners have heard of the establishment. Your vet may also be a good source of information about local daycares. Look for one where the employees have lots of dog experience, and the canine guests get to play, and not be crated for much of the day.

For an example of a good daycare, check out The Doggie Den!

Adopt-a-Pet.com Features Emily On PEOPLEpets

peoples-pets Today Adopt-a-Pet.com was featured on PEOPLEpets! We took the opportunity to highlight the life of Emily who is listed on our website in search of a home. Emily was found running alone in an Ohio cornfield, presumably left by her previous owners. Taken to the local Wilmington Area Humane Society, the possible whippet-Mountain Cur mix soon became a staff favorite. “Emily is.. Finish reading at PEOPLEPets.com

ADOPT-A-PET.COM PAYS TRIBUTE TO FRIEND AND SUPPORTER RUE MCLANAHAN

June 3rd, 2010
Abbie Moore, executive director of Adopt-a-Pet.com, released the following statement regarding the death of actress Rue McClanahan, whose image appears on the non-profit’s web site: “Everyone at Adopt-a-Pet.com is extremely saddened to hear of Rue McClanahan’s passing. Ms. McClanahan, a noted animal lover, generously donated her time, energy, and likeness in support of pet adoption by appearing in an episode of our web series, The Save-a-Pet Show. She also appears on the Adopt-a-Pet.com web site, fittingly, on the page where visitors can search for a shelter cat to adopt (http://www.adoptapet.com/cat-adoption). We’ve always thought of her as our ‘Cat Ambassador’, greeting and encouraging all who come to Adopt-a-Pet.com with the intention of saving a cat’s life.

“In the episode of the Save-a-Pet Show in which she appears, Ms. McClanahan revealed the bottomless compassion she felt for all animals, dogs and cats alike. In fact, she said, during the filming of The Golden Girls, she had eight cats and six dogs, all adopted from shelters or rescued as strays from the streets. We thank you, Rue, for everything you’ve done to spread the word about pet adoption and the great example you’ve set as a wonderful human being.”

Adds Dr. Pia Salk, who interviewed Ms. McClanahan in the episode of The Save-a-Pet Show: “Rue graciously invited us into her home to shoot the episode and we surprised her by bringing some shelter kittens with us. There was a very sweet ‘little girl’ quality to her that comes out in the episode as she cuddles each shelter kitten and helps me name them! She was really lovely and so genuinely concerned for these kittens specifically, as well as the overall plight of shelter animals. She will be sorely missed by 2 –and-4 -leggers alike.”

The Save-a-Pet Show can be viewed here: http://www.adoptapet.com/save-a-pet-show/index.html, or on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_lTujC5bBw