Month: December 2010

In an emergency, keep a level head and quickly get your cat to the veterinarian. Call first. If your doctor’s office is not open, call the nearest emergency pet clinic. Keep emergency phone numbers near your telephone.

Unless you have been trained and are absolutely positive you can administer CPR to your cat, it is best – and safer – to seek immediate veterinary care.

There are some things you can do or avoid doing to help your cat before you get her to the hospital/clinic as soon as possible:

• Wrap your cat in a heavy towel or blanket to keep her warm and restrict her movements. Having assistance may be helpful.
• Apply a pressure bandage (sterile gauze or a clean handkerchief) to stem or stop the bleeding of a cut or bite.
• Apply a cold compress to a burn and gently hold it there until you get to the veterinary clinic.
• Do not induce vomiting even if you suspect or know your cat has swallowed a poisonous substance.
• At any sign of choking (drooling, difficulty swallowing, pawing at the mouth, gagging), do not attempt to remove the item.
• If your cat suffers heatstroke, take her to a cool spot and sponge her with cool water. Encourage your cat to drink small amounts of water.
• If your cat suffers frostbite, place her in a warm room immediately. Thaw out the frostbitten areas slowly by applying warm moist towels that are changed frequently until the area becomes flushed. Severe frostbite can result in damaged paws and ear tips, so it is best to visit your veterinarian as soon as possible, to have him determine the extent of the damage.

Your cat may throw up occasionally in order to get rid of hairballs or because there’s competition around the food bowl. There could also be a more obvious explanation. If your kitty frequently gags or vomits after dinner, she may simply be chowing down too quickly. In fact, one of the most common reasons why cats vomit is that they eat too quickly.

When cats eat too voraciously, they often swallow their kibble whole and end up gagging on it. The easiest way to slow down an overeager feline eater is to feed a larger kibble size so she has to take longer to chew and swallow. You can also try feeding a greedy kitty smaller portions of food more often.

But if the problem continues, give your veterinarian a call. Vomiting can be a sign of something more serious.

 

While some pet owners think a fat cat is a healthy cat, there are easy ways to find out if your cat has the ideal body condition. Allowing her to get heavy can have a major impact on her health, mobility and lifespan. Use the following tips to better understand your cat’s body condition and determine if your cat is too thin, ideal or too heavy.

Too Thin

1. Ribs visible on shorthaired cats; no palpable fat; severe abdominal tuck; lumbar vertebrae and wings of ilia easily palpated.

2. Ribs easily visible on shorthaired cats; lumbar vertebrae obvious with minimal muscle mass; pronounced abdominal tuck; no palpable fat.

3. Ribs easily palpable with minimal fat covering; lumbar vertebrae obvious; obvious waist behind ribs; minimal abdominal fat.

4. Ribs palpable with minimal fat covering; noticeable waist behind ribs; slight abdominal tuck; abdominal fat pad absent.

Ideal

5. Well-proportioned; observe waist behind ribs; ribs palpable with slight fat covering; abdominal fat pad minimal.

Too Heavy

6. Ribs palpable with slight excess fat covering; waist and abdominal fat pad distinguishable but not obvious; abdominal tuck absent.

7. Ribs not easily palpated with moderate fat covering; waist poorly discernible; obvious rounding of abdomen; moderate abdominal fat pad.

8. Ribs not palpable with excess fat covering; waist absent; obvious rounding of abdomen with prominent abdominal fat pad; fat deposits present over lumbar area.

9. Ribs not palpable under heavy fat cover; heavy fat deposits over lumbar area, face and limbs; distention of abdomen with no waist; extensive abdominal fat deposits.

Humans aren’t the only ones living large. The obesity epidemic is affecting our cats, too. In fact, between twenty-five and forty percent of pet cats are obese or likely to become obese.

Unfortunately, cat owners don’t always realize that their once-trim tabby has become a fat feline. Without proper weight management, their cats continue to grow—and become at higher risk for diabetes, arthritis, and other conditions.

So keep an eye on your cat’s weight. When you pat her, gently press down. If you are unable to feel her ribs, consider taking her to the veterinarian for a proper exam. After ruling out any underlying medical causes, your veterinarian can help you develop an appropriate nutrition and exercise plan.

Obesity is just as dangerous for pets as it is for humans. The extra pounds weigh on an animal’s cardiovascular and respiratory systems, exacerbating existing problems and causing new ones. Fat cats and dogs are also prone to injury, more at risk in surgery, and predisposed to conditions such as diabetes. And the laundry list of problems doesn’t end there. Decreased stamina, diminished immune function, and digestive disorders are all potential consequences of obesity.

Being severely overweight can significantly diminish your cat or dog’s quality of life. So when your porky pet pleads with you for an extra treat, remember that saying no may be the kindest response.

When buying food and water bowls for your cat, look beyond the cute patterns. Plastic scratches easily, and tiny fissures can harbor germs. Stainless steel is sturdy, unbreakable, and dishwasher-safe. Ceramic is another good choice. Be sure to wash out all food bowls daily.

Cat bowls should be shallow, yet large enough to hold a full cup of cat food. Straight-sided bowls are less likely to tip. Automatic feeders help keep kitty’s routine consistent when you’re away. If you care for outdoor strays, electrically heated bowls keep fresh water available all winter long. And, if you want to “bowl” your older cat over with kindness, buy an elevated bowl frame and watch her chow down in comfort!

Some pet owners forget that humans require a variety of foods to ensure the consumption of nutritionally balanced meals. A quality cat food has the proper balance of all the nutrients a cat requires together with a high level of palatability. Adding human food to a nutritionally balanced commercial cat food may upset the nutrient balance of the diet.

Milk is a food and not a substitute for water. As a food, milk is incomplete and does not provide a balanced diet. Milk contains lactose, which requires the enzyme lactase for breakdown in the intestinal tract. If the intestinal tract does not contain sufficient lactase, consumption of a high level of lactose can cause diarrhea.

Repeatedly adding raw eggs to a cat’s diet can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin, which can lead to dermatitis (inflammation of the skin), loss of hair and poor growth.

Some raw fish can cause a deficiency of the vitamin thiamine. Signs of a thiamine deficiency include anorexia (complete loss of appetite), abnormal posture, weakness, seizures and even death.

Although we may associate meat or meat by-products with a cat’s nutritional needs, it must be combined with other ingredients to provide complete nutrition. Raw meats may contain parasites, and cooked meats can be high in fat and do not contain a proper balance of nutrients.

Raw liver, fed daily in large quantities, can cause vitamin A toxicity in cats. Small soft bones (such as pork chop or chicken bones) should never be given to cats, as they may splinter and lodge in a pet’s mouth or throat.

Supplements are not necessary when a normal, healthy cat is being fed a complete and balanced food. However, factors like feeding table scraps, inconsistent exercise or stressful changes in routine can leave cats with special nutritional needs.

Some pet owners believe that additional calcium, and possibly other minerals, should be added to the diets of pregnant and nursing females and growing puppies and kittens. It is true that more minerals are needed at these times, but they are normally obtained through increased consumption of a high-quality, nutritionally balanced diet. Adding them out of proportion to other nutrients can contribute to skeletal deformities and other problems.

Finally, table scraps should not be fed, as they will not provide the balanced diet which cats require.

Types of Cat Foods

The three main types of cat foods are dry, soft-moist and canned products. With today’s advanced technology, all types of cat food products can be formulated to provide complete and balanced nutrition for your cat.

Dry Diets

Dry products consist of crunchy kibbles, which help reduce the build-up of plaque and tartar on a cat’s teeth. Dry foods also have the advantage of staying fresh longer than soft-moist and canned products once the package is opened.

Soft-Moist Diets

Soft-moist cat foods generally offer higher palatability as compared to dry diets, are convenient to serve and store easily.

Canned Diets

These diets generally offer the highest palatability when compared to dry and soft-moist products. Once a can is opened, unused food should be stored in the refrigerator.

Comparing Label Guarantees

The difference in moisture content among the various types of cat food impacts the nutrient density of the products or the amount of nutrients per ounce or pound of food. As the water content of the diet increases, the amount of protein, fat and other essential nutrients decreases. That means the cat must consume a larger portion of the high-moisture products to receive the nutrition they need.

This difference in moisture and energy content also prohibits a direct comparison of the nutrient content of one product type to another. For example, you cannot compare the 12% protein content of a canned cat food to the 21% protein level of a dry cat food and conclude the dry food will supply more protein. You can, however, make a fair comparison of the 21% protein content of one dry cat food to the 30% protein content of another dry cat food and conclude that the cat will receive more protein by eating the higher protein product. The higher protein product, however, is not necessarily superior. The key factors are the life stage and lifestyle of the cat eating the product.

Pet Foods to Meet Special Needs

For more information about individual cat food products, contact the manufacturer.

Don’t mistake your kitten for an adult cat when it comes to kibble. Cats are not considered adults until they are one year old, and before then, their nutritional needs differ.

You may have noticed that kittens are very playful, and fast growing. That extra movement, musculoskeletal growth, and neurological development all require more calories and protein.

But a kitty’s tummy doesn’t have a lot of space for a big meal, so kitten formulas are the answer. They pack more power into a petite portion.

Your kitten won’t be hurt by adult food, but an adult can be damaged by the extra protein in kitten formulas…so be sure to keep the kibble separate if you serve both adult cats and kittens at home.

Here’s our latest guest blog post from PawPrints the Magazine! Written by Stacy E. Smith, the article is entitled “I Am That I Am – Could your dog have an identity crisis?” Here’s what she has to say about her experiences trying to determine her mixed breed’s dog heritage using a gene testing kit: Remember Cecil B. DeMille’s 1956 film “THE TEN COMMANDMENTS” where Moses kneels in front of a bush that appears to be burning? Moses is asked by the bush to remove his sandals citing something about holy ground, some more pleasantries are exchanged between the bush (a.k.a. God) and Moses, until eventually curiosity gets the best of Moses and he asks…

MOSES: What shall I call you?

BUSH (a.k.a.God, not a former U.S. President) in a booming, but soothing other-worldly voice: “I am that I am.”

What the heck is that supposed to mean? It means the voice, the being, the power, etc. is indescribable in any words known to mankind. The phrases, “Just go with it” or “Take my word for it” could certainly have been inserted in a modern day version. There is just no “knowing” and Moses has to just take it on faith that what he heard and was asked to do would all work out for the best. After all, did it really matter? A bush is speaking and that alone might have been enough for most of us.

That’s sort of how it is with many of us and our pets. On one hand there are people that own purebred, pedigreed dogs. They probably even have special papers that prove lineage back to the beginning of time. They assume that is proof enough and so it should be. Besides, how could you disprove it anyway?

On the other hand there is mixed breed pet ownership. Anyone that owns a mixed breed dog has most likely adopted their pet from a shelter or rescue group or perhaps even found the animal as a stray. There is no way to know the animal’s heritage let alone what breed it is. There is often a best guess made and the book on that subject is closed. Certainly everyone wants to know, but we really can’t expect anyone to know for sure. That’s what I have recently started calling the “I-am-that-I-am” factor. There are no facts to back up the claim that your dog is a Saint Bernard/Border Collie mix or a Yellow Lab mix, but for lack of more information you’re willing to go with that and move on with your life. You love your dog no matter what he/she is. Who cares? The only one that asks you to put it in writing is usually your vet whose paperwork asks the breed of your pet. Often an interested person you meet while out and about might ask and you really need something to say. I mean who wants to answer that question with “I don’t know?” You might even feel like knowing can help explain a dog’s personality or be a help in determining special training or health issues. Other than that it probably makes no difference. And, as I mentioned earlier, you can’t really prove or disprove your theory.

Or can you? What if you could find out what breeds made up your mixed breed dog? Would you?

Guess what? You can find out! Right now – today. Well, the process takes longer than a day, but you can actually begin the process before you finish reading this article (although I’d prefer that you finish since I did go to all the trouble of writing it).

Although there are several companies out there now that perform the test we happened to contact MMI Genomics, Inc. which has a subsidiary called MetaMorphix, Inc. Founded in 1994 the company, among other things, uses DNA technology to improve the global food supply. For example, in livestock they help customers produce higher quality, nutritious meat more efficiently. They eventually wandered into the field of canine genetic testing which allowed breeders to prove the lineage of their litters called the Canine DNA Parentage Test. The Canine DNA Identification Test, DNA PawPrint™ product, produces a unique DNA profile of a dog. Since DNA is passed from parent to offspring, these DNA profiles can be used to verify relationships – it is used to determine parents of dogs. Breeders and owners of dogs use this test to ensure accuracy of breeding records, confirm and guarantee pedigrees and protect breed integrity.

But what if none of that is important to you? What if your dog’s history is unknown and is some sort of mix? These days any dog owner is able to find out what breeds make up their mutt. The test developed by MetaMorphix, Inc. just for that purpose is called the Canine Heritage™ Breed Test. At the outset the company was able to test against 38 breeds and is now able to test for over 100.

Being the owners of all mixed breed dogs we couldn’t wait to try it ourselves. I emailed the company immediately to get the ball rolling.

Here is what we thought we had living with us: Keegan, a Border Collie/Shetland Sheep mix (we were 99.9% sure because we knew who the mother and father were); Clyde, a Saint Bernard/who-knows-what mix (we were told he was mixed with a Border Collie, but knowing a lot about that particular breed we knew that was wrong); Seamus, a Saint Bernard/Border Collie mix and Sedgwick, a Yellow Lab/shepherd mix.

The testing kits arrived at our home and were in plastic tubes with the swab, instructions and return address label rolled up inside. The swab really looked like a bottle brush – bristly, not a cotton swab. All that was necessary was to take the brush and run it along the gum/cheek area of the dog for thirty seconds and place the swab inside the designated receptacle. Along with that there were some short forms to fill out and added to the mailing tube and that was it. The mailman took them away and a few weeks later we had the results.

Now at the time we had the test was performed MetaMorphix, Inc. only had the capability of determining 38 breeds. The results have three designations and are described here by MetaMorphix, Inc.:

Primary – This category is intended to help owners recognize when their pet’s DNA contains a majority of a specific breed (i.e. 50% or greater). If your dog has a strong match to one of our [available] breeds, then it is categorized as primary. Most mixed breed dogs will not usually have a breed in this category unless one or both of their parents are purebred.

Secondary – This category reports breeds that are easily recognizable within your dog. While these breeds may have a strong influence on your pet, each breed listed makes up less than the majority of your dog’s DNA.

In the Mix – This final category identifies breeds that have the least amount of influence on your pet’s composition, however, they still appear, at a low and measurable amount, in your pet’s DNA.

So, you want to know the how to get your very own Canine Heritage™ Breed Test kit and more importantly how much it will cost you, right?

The test kits can be purchased on-line at www.canineheritage.com. It can also be purchased at Petco. The best part is that the test isn’t too expensive – only about $120. Either way, your results will be mailed back to you in 4 – 6 weeks and you will even get a certificate suitable for framing that can even include a photo of your pet as long as you’re able to supply one via email.

Speaking of supplying photos… If anyone out there has a DNA test done on their mixed breed dog (no matter what company you choose to perform the test), email your dog’s photo to us at info@pawprintsthemagazine.com, along with the dog’s name and breed results and we’ll post it on pawprintsthemagazine.com!