Month: April 2017

The statistics are troubling: One in three pets will get lost. Without identification, only 10% will return home. Losing your beloved dog or cat is a terrible experience, and we hope it never happens to you. Follow the links below for specific advice:

The Best Option: Prevent Your Pet From Getting Lost
What To Do If You’ve Lost Your Pet
What To Do If You’ve Found A Pet

THE BEST OPTION:
PREVENT YOUR PET FROM GETTING LOST IN THE FIRST PLACE:

Don’t have an “it can’t happen to me” attitude:

Don’t ever assume just because your dog or cat has never gotten out before that it can’t happen. Nobody ever thinks their pet will get lost; if they did, they’d know how to prevent it from happening. Think about these possibilities: What if there’s a fire while you’re at work and firemen kick the door open? What if an earthquake shatters windows? What if a sudden thunderstorm or fireworks causes your dog to get scared and dig under a fence or jump through a window? Perhaps a local utility worker opens your gate. The point is, there are a million reasons why an environment you think is secure can be compromised through no fault of your own. Know that it can happen to you, and be prepared.

Proper identification is your pet’s best chance of being returned:

• First and foremost: keep identification on your pet. When your dog or cat gets out, he can’t go up to a stranger and tell them his name and address. ALWAYS keep tags on your dog or cat with a current phone number (with area code). The moment your phone number changes, get new tags!
• We cannot stress this enough…get your pet MICROCHIPPED. If you adopt an already-microchipped pet, send in the paperwork and get the chip registered in your name. In case your pet’s ID tag falls off, this is your one chance to make sure your pet will be returned to you. If you move or change your phone number, make sure to contact the microchip company right away to notify them of your new information.
• When traveling with your pet, add a temporary tag with local contact information, if possible.

Other precautionary measures:

• Keep good, recent photos of your pets. These will come in handy if your pet gets lost and you need to distribute flyers.
• If your dog spends any time alone in your yard, check your fence and gates often for signs of wear. Check along the bottom of the fence for signs your dog is digging.
• Be especially careful on holidays like the Fourth of July and New Years Eve, when fireworks cause more pets to bolt than any other days of the year. The shelters are absolutely filled with pets on July 5th and January 1st—make sure your pet is not among them. Keep in mind that extreme fear can cause your pet to behave out of character. Many pets become frightened and panicked enough to jump through windows or bust right through fences.

IF YOU’VE LOST YOUR DOG OR CAT:

This is obvious, but it bears saying anyway. If your pet is lost, there are only a few possibilities: Your pet is either on the streets, your pet has been found and taken somewhere like a shelter, someone’s home, or to a rescue organization, or your pet has been stolen. The following suggestions deal with each of these possibilities to ensure your pet has the best chance of coming home again.

In case your pet is still on the street:

• If you have a regular route where you walk your dog, comb that route on foot. Bring along a leash, strong-smelling food, such as a hamburger patty, hot dog, or an open can of wet cat food, and your dog’s favorite noise-making toy. Keep in mind that your dog may be hiding out of view, especially if he or she is afraid, so walk slowly and alternate between calling your dog’s name and listening quietly for any movement or response.
• If you’ve lost your cat, he or she may not have roamed very far. Try leaving some food out at night, when cats are most active, and note if the food is being eaten. If you’re not sure if it’s your cat or a wild animal eating the food, here’s a tip: place the food on a mat, and sprinkle baby powder on the mat. In the morning, you’ll be able to see paw prints in the powder, which will let you know the size of the animal that’s been chowing down!

Flyers are a must. Here are some tips for effective flyers:

• Flyers should always include a photo, ideally a close-up photo made as large on the page as possible.
• Keep in mind that most people who see your flyers will be driving by quickly or will see your flyer from a distance, so make them as easy-to-read and as eye-catching as possible. Make the flyer with brightly-colored paper. Use the largest photo and letters possible.
• Keep the information very simple. Include the word “Lost”, a large photo, the pet’s name, the date, your phone number, and the word “reward”, if one is being offered (see below). Do not give out too much information. You will want to make sure anyone who calls you is actually in possession of your dog or cat, especially if you’re offering a reward, and you can do that by asking them for more specific information, like color of the collar your dog was wearing or the location of your cat’s three brown spots.
• Always include the date so people know it’s a current flyer will actively be on the lookout.
• Consider offering a reward. The word “Reward” on a flyer is very eye-catching and may cause more people to look at your pet’s information and photo. A reward is also a good incentive for people to be extra vigilant in keeping an eye out for your pet. Be sure you have your pet back in your possession before you give out the reward—there are unscrupulous people out there willing to scam a heartbroken pet owner out of reward money, so be careful.
• Place flyers not just on telephone poles and signposts, but also on car windshields in your neighborhood, on local public bulletin boards in retail stores and parks, and in the lobby of apartment buildings nearby. If the apartment lobby is locked, don’t be shy about asking a resident to let you in so you can post a notice.
• Hang your flyers in a wider area than you’d think necessary. Dogs and cats can end up quite far away in a short period of time.
• Bring flyers to all local veterinary offices. If someone has found your pet, there’s a chance they’ll take him or her to a vet to be checked out and scanned for a microchip.

Be Proactive in Your Search:

• Immediately call and visit all local animal shelters, even those you think might be farther away than you think your pet would have traveled. A phone call to the shelter is a first step, but should always be followed up by a visit; sometimes the volume of animals in the shelter is so high that the staff may not be aware of new pets that have been brought in. Call and visit the shelters very frequently, daily if possible, keeping in mind that in shelters that euthanize, your window of opportunity to claim your pet may be limited
• At the shelter, make sure you check in all areas, including the infirmary. Also, a more unpleasant task that we hate to mention: check the shelter’s list of dogs that have been impounded deceased.
• Call and email all the animal rescue groups in your area. Often, the first thing a well-meaning person who found a dog or cat will do is call no-kill rescue groups to see if they can take the pet. Ask your local rescue groups if they’ve taken in a pet matching your dog or cat’s description or if they’ve been contacted by someone who found such a pet.
• Keep actively searching and visiting your shelter for at least two to three months.
• Place a Lost Pet ad in your local paper’s classified section. Check all local classifieds for a Found Pet ad, too.
• There are many web sites that specialize in lost and found pet postings. Be sure to check these out and utilize their service as well.

IF YOU’VE FOUND A DOG OR CAT:

• Post flyers, much in the same way as a person who lost their pet would. See the section above for detailed advice.
• Keep a couple of key details off the flyer. Give out only enough information so the pet’s owner will suspect it’s their pet. For instance, if you find a Bichon Frise with a red collar, you might advertise “Found: Small white dog with collar”. When the owner calls, ask him or her to describe the collar and ask what breed their dog is. Beware of unscrupulous characters who will try to claim dogs for nefarious purposes.
• If you can safely house the pet while you attempt to find the owner, that’s wonderful. If not, call local rescue groups to see if anyone has room to foster the pet for you and to help find the pet a new home if the owner cannot be located.
• Take the dog or cat to a vet or shelter to have him scanned for a microchip.
• If there are children playing in the neighborhood where you found the pet, talk to them! Children are an incredibly valuable resource in this situation—they tend to know all the pets in the neighborhood by sight, since they spend so much time outdoors.
• Call all local shelters to see if anyone has reported their dog missing. Post flyers in all shelters.
• Take flyers to all veterinary offices in the area. If they don’t recognize the pet as one of their patients, ask if they can post the flyer in the waiting room.
• Place a Found Pet ad in your local newspaper classifieds, and check for a Lost Pet ad as well.
• There are many web sites that specialize in lost and found pet postings. Be sure to check these out and utilize their service as well.

1. I just adopted my new pet. He seems healthy—do I still need to take him to the veterinarian right away?

Yes! Taking your new pet (whether dog, cat, hamster, or any other living thing) to the veterinarian should be your first priority. This is especially true if you have other pets. It’s a good idea to make sure your new pet is healthy and doesn’t have any diseases or viruses he or she could transmit to other animals in the house.

Your first veterinarian visit should be an enjoyable experience. You’ll learn all kinds of things about your new companion! Plus, you’ll want your veterinarian to get to know your pet during times of health so he or she will easily be able to recognize abnormal behavior if your pet ever becomes ill.

2. How do I find a veterinarian?

The best way to find a veterinarian is by word of mouth. The animal shelter or rescue group where you adopted your pet may have a good recommendation for you. If not, ask your friends who is their veterinarian. If you don’t have friends with pets, ask folks who are walking their dogs in your neighborhood about where they take their pet for veterinarian care.

You can also choose a veterinarian out of a phonebook, directory, or an on line search. A great online veterinarian finder can be found here.

3. How often does my pet need a checkup?

For proper preventative care, your dog or cat should be examined by a veterinarian twice a year. As your pet ages, though, your veterinarian may recommend more frequent visits. Between visits, though, make sure to pet your dog or cat often and take notice of any new lumps, scabs, or other wounds. Look for changes in your pet’s breath, behavior, energy level or appetite, as these may be cause for concern. Notice if your pet is scratching himself more than usual. Call your veterinarian if you notice any of these or if you have other concerns.

4. What can I expect from a regular checkup visit with my dog or cat?

First, your veterinarian will probably ask you all about your pet. They’ll want to know if your dog or cat has had any vomiting or diarrhea, coughing, sneezing, itching, or excessive thirst. They’ll also ask if your pet’s energy level and appetite are normal, and they may inquire about your pet’s diet.

Your dog or cat will then be weighed and assessed to determine if he or she is too heavy or too thin. Then, the veterinarian or veterinary technician will check for fleas using a special flea comb. Your pet’s temperature will also be taken.

A physical examination is performed. The veterinarian will check your pet’s ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and lymph nodes and listen to the heart and lungs. They’ll feel your pet’s abdomen by hand to check for pain or masses. They’ll also check the condition of your pet’s skin. In some cases, they will also examine your pet’s legs, hips, and joints. Your pet’s external genital area will be checked. Sometimes a rectal examination is also performed.

Your veterinarian may order a CBC (Complete Blood Count) and other diagnostic tests, including a fecal exam to check for parasites.

5. What kinds of preventative treatments might my veterinarian recommend?

Your veterinarian will certainly recommend a good-quality diet, in the proper amounts, to keep your pet thin and healthy. A preventative dental plan (like regular tooth-brushing) is a common recommendation as well.

Your veterinarian will also stress the importance of avoiding parasites, and will suggest options for flea and tick prevention and control. Internal parasites, like roundworm, are potentially harmful, and your veterinarian may suggest periodic de-worming treatments or products that treat and control internal parasites monthly. One internal parasite in particular, heartworm, can be deadly. It is suggested that pets be on a heartworm preventative year round. Prevention is cheaper than treatment.

Vaccines will also be discussed and administered as needed. Other preventative measures for keeping pets healthy may be discussed, such as exercise, socialization, and behavior training.

6. What about dental treatments? Does my pet need to go to the dentist like I do?

Dental health is as important to your pet as it is for you! In fact, dental problems in dogs and cats can even lead to heart and kidney disease, so caring for your pet’s teeth is absolutely essential. First, make sure you follow the preventative care plan prescribed by your veterinarian. Often your veterinarian will recommend daily brushing along with other less-helpful home care activities like chew toys, rinses, etc.

Most pets will need professional dental care from time to time. Usually this will be performed by a licensed veterinarian with your pet under anesthesia, and will clean the teeth below the gumline and the inner and chewing surfaces of the teeth, fully examine and probe the gumline, and possibly obtain dental x-rays of the tooth roots. Rotten, loose, and painful teeth may need to be extracted.

Dental care by a vet is performed on an as-needed basis. Some pets require professional cleaning every 6-12 months; some pets not as often–but a dental check-up should be done every year.

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TRAVELING WITH YOUR PET can be wonderful – a real “trip”! What better way to really connect with your furry companion than to vacation together, and you don’t even have to pack an extra bathing suit for your pet. Of course, sometimes we travel with a pet because we must, like during a cross-country move. Whatever the reason, everybody (including your pet) needs to get to where they are going safe and sound. The most important thing is to make sure your pet does not get lost in some strange city, so here are some important tips for before and during your travels.

No matter how or where you’re traveling, the first rule of thumb is always this: Unless your dog or cat can say “Hi, my name is FiFi and my phone number is…,” please MAKE SURE YOUR PET HAS AS MUCH IDENTIFICATION AS POSSIBLE! Every day, we hear from people whose missing pets did not haveID tags or microchips, and they never dreamed their pets would get lost. If FiFi becomes separated from you while you are on the road, it’s even less likely you’ll be able to find him/her, so proper identification is your only chance of being reunited. Some very important suggestions:

• Make sure to have ID tags on your pet’s collar, and if at all possible, list your cell phone number on them. This way, if your pet gets lost, you can be reached wherever you are.
• Microchip your pet, and submit the microchip registration information so if your pet is scanned, your contact information will be in the database (and make sure to update your information with the microchip company if you move)! That may sound like an obvious tip, but you’d be surprised how many people have a microchip placed in their pet and then forget to register their microchip, only to regret it later. Don’t put it off another day�do it now! Collars can slip off, and tags can and do break off collars, especially if your pet escapes through a narrow opening. Microchips offer a more permanent solution for identification.
• Don’t forget to label your pet’s carrier prominently with your name, address, and

phone number.

AIRLINE TRAVEL TIPS FOR PETS:

If you’re planning an airplane trip with your pet, keep in mind that some airlines don’t allow animals at all, and some only allow pets to travel during certain months, especially if your pet must travel in the cargo container of the plane. These rules are in place for your pet’s safety�in the hottest or coldest months of the year, the cargo hold can be a deadly place for animals. If you have a very small dog or a cat, some airlines will allow you to bring him or her on board with you to be stowed under your seat in a special soft-sided carrier; most airlines only allow a few pets on board at a time, though, so reserve well in advance!

Although air travel for pets is regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the International Air Transport Association, each airline also has its own rules and regulations to follow. Most will not allow pets under eight weeks of age or aggressive or ill pets to fly. Check with your airline well in advance of travel to learn their pet-travel policies.

Airline travel for pets is never 100% safe, especially for pets that are checked as baggage. Many animal welfare organizations, including the ASPCA and Humane Society of the United States recommend against flying your pet on a commercial airline flight unless he or she is small enough to accompany you on board. If you must fly and place your pet in the cargo hold, please consider the following tips to make your pet’s trip is as safe as possible:

• Consider your flight schedule and any time your pet might be outside being moved in and out of the plane. If you are flying during the winter or summer, schedule flights during the mildest time of the day. In summer, early morning flights are best. In winter, fly during the warmest part of the day and avoid evening and overnight flights. Choose the shortest flight possible.
• Book a direct flight with no layovers or transfers to reduce the chance of your pet being lost or being exposed to harsh conditions on the tarmac.
• When you board the plane, let the cabin crew know that you have a pet traveling in cargo. Ask them to radio down to the loading crew to check that your pet has made it onto the plane! Another reason to notify the cabin crew is that the pilot may be able to control the temperature in the cargo hold to make your pet more comfortable, so don’t be afraid to speak up.
• Your pet’s crate should meet airline requirements and be clearly labeled with the words “LIVE ANIMAL”, with an arrow pointing up. Don’t lock the cage in a way that would prevent a crew member from opening it in case of emergency. Do use a plastic luggage tie to securely fasten the crate door closed so the crate can’t open accidentally during transport (yikes!).
• Don’t feed your pet within three hours of the flight. Make sure to freeze water in the crate’s water dish beforehand and place it in the crate right before you depart. That way, the water will not slosh out of the dish, but will slowly melt over the duration of the flight, giving your pet a constant supply of fresh water.
• Never sedate your pet before a flight without consulting your veterinarian first. While flying is stressful (for humans too), some pets will be fine and sleep through the flight naturally.
• Schedule a checkup with your veterinarian to make sure all shots are up-to-date. Have your veterinarian issue a health certificate dated within ten days of departure, and bring it to the airport in your carry-on along with certificates of vaccination.
• Be sure to remove your pet’s leash so it can’t become tangled in the crate and choke your pet. Also, trim your pet’s nails to keep them from getting caught in the crate.
• Enclose something soft with your scent on it (like a t-shirt you’ve worn for a few hours) in the crate. This can be very reassuring to your pet during during the hours of loud noises and bumping.
• Always travel with a photo of your pet in case he or she becomes lost or you need to identify him or her as yours.

AND HERE ARE SOME OTHER IMPORTANT TRAVEL TIPS:

• Try not to leave pets alone in your hotel room, even if the hotel allows it. No, they won’t make a long-distance call that will show up on your bill! But if your pet gets nervous and agitated and starts to bark or cry, a well-meaning hotel staffer may enter the room to offer comfort. An open door could give your pet the opportunity to escape. If you do need to leave your pet unattended, most cities have doggy daycare services to watch over pets�ask the hotel to help you locate one.
• Never, NEVER leave any pet unattended in a car, even for a short time. If you think it’s safe because your car is in the shade, think again: shade is only temporary! It moves with the sun’s position in the sky or when clouds disperse. It’s also possible that someone might break into your car to steal something- even your pet. NO amount of unsupervised time in the car is ever safe.
• Get the location of emergency vet clinics in your destination city before you leave for your trip and bring the information with you in an easily-accessible place, like your carry-on.
• Travel with a copy of your pet’s vaccination records, just in case you need to place him or her in daycare or he/she requires medical help.
• During car trips, make sure your pet is properly restrained in a carrier or with a harness.

BON VOYAGE! WE WISH YOU AND YOUR PET A SAFE RETURN!

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