Author: Jennifer

No one is going to argue about the exponential cute factor of a puppy and kitten together! As illustrated in the photo above, the combination has amazing “aweeeeee” power. That’s is me holding one of my foster kittens and a foster puppy. What you can’t see is my happy but very tired face! Puppies and kittens are babies and like human babies they take a lot of time, energy, and cleanup.  If you’re thinking about adopting or fostering puppies and kittens together, I’ll share my experience and Top 4 Tips so that you can be prepared with lots of paper towels for the poopy moments and your camera for all the adorable moments too.

So, should you adopt a puppy and a kitten at the same time? My advice, after fostering both at the same time, is you should know it is a lot easier to only have one baby in the house at a time. The advantages are if you have the time, energy, and setup, your puppy and kitten(s) will grow up used to each other. “Older” puppies and kittens (like 6 months to 1 year old) are a lot easier than tiny baby kittens, and still young enough to grow up together. Plus many adult cats and dogs can not only learn to get along but love each other too.

I didn’t set out to be fostering both puppies and kittens at the same time, but springtime in many parts of the world means baby animals. Also in many places, like here in Los Angeles, too many babies means not enough cages and foster homes for them all. When a shelter volunteer asked a local rescue to  save two baby kittens that only had until the end of the day, I turned my bedroom into a foster isolation area so they could say yes. That way I could foster them separated from my other pets for a few weeks until everyone was vaccinated and healthy. The kittens got their vet check and kitten treatments and were a happy and healthy little pair.

Then a friend who works long hours was unexpected given this baby puppy at work. First thing puppy went straight to the vet, to make sure the she didn’t have any illnesses or parasites the kittens could catch or vice versa.  She was so tiny — only 1 and a half pounds — just a tiny bit smaller than the kittens! Not knowing how they’d get along, we set up the puppy in a crate in the corner of the kitten room. The kittens were fearless and curious about their new visitor. They spent a day getting to know each other through the crate door, then were fully introduced.

Puppy and kitten introduction tips:

1. If puppy is bigger than kittens, you may want to hold puppy on a leash so kittens can run away and get out or range if puppy is starts playing too rough.
2. Monitor when together! You need to be the “mom” dog/cat and intervene SEE VIDEO BELOW if playing gets too rough. Listen for meows or puppy squeals. Most puppies and kittens can learn to play with each other without biting too hard, but they have to learn to control the force of their bite — that’s called bite inhibition.
3. Introduce slowly by letting puppy and kitten(s) play together as long as they both seem happy. You may need to do many short sessions building up their time together.
4. Keep litter box and kitten food away from puppy. This can require some inventive thinking! If you have a tiny puppy and bigger kittens, a high-sided litterbox that the kittens can get in and out of easily but puppy can’t can work for when you’re there supervising. Use non-clumping litter— ask your vet for a recommendation of the type that is the most safe if puppy accidentally eats some of it, like if kitten jumps out of the box with some stuck to her foot and puppy then eats it.

VIDEO: Video of puppy rough play kitten intervention redirection to toy. Watch this video below to see how to gently intervene and redirect a mouthy puppy on to a toy when puppy is playing too rough with a kitten.

Enjoy your adopted puppies and kittens!

You can download our free puppy help guide The Puppy Manual here.

There’s no denying keeping cats indoors keeps cats and wildlife safer and healthier. Transitioning a cat from outdoors to indoors can be as easy as closing a door. Sometimes, cats are very happy staying inside your home. Other times, you and they need a little more help! Cats are amazingly adaptable. Each cat is also incredibly unique depending on their biological and environmental background. This article is here to help you if you’re wondering about or struggling with how to transition an outdoor cat to indoors.

Let’s say you have a cat you adopted from a neighbor too elderly to care for the cat any longer. The neighbor used to let him go in and out, but you’re rightly worried about the neighborhood coyotes/hawks/mean cats/cars/etc so you want to keep him safely inside. You bring him home and how he meows and scratches nonstop at the door or window to be let outside, even dashes out the front door the second you open it. How can you help him to be happy staying inside?

1. Make sure he’s spayed or neutered and healthy. If you’re getting him fixed, take advantage of the fact that they often are groggy afterwards to show him how nice and cozy it is on his special bed inside the closet or on top of the cat tree.

2. Move and take the cat with you. Only half-joking about this! This is why when you adopt a cat from the shelter, it can be easier to make them an indoor-only pet. Especially if you use tip #3 below.

3. Use all of our 5 tips for keeping an indoor cat happy. That means tons of playing, exercise and other enrichment like fun to climb and scratch cat condos placed in front of windows for “cat tv” watching the out of doors, shelving, new cardboard boxes left open sideways on the floor, closets and cabinets left open for exploring and hiding places… get creative!

4. Build a catio for him.

5. Keep him from doordashing.

6. Hang a bird feeder near a window to make for easy bird watching.

7. Use calming cat pheromone plugins in every room.

You may wonder wouldn’t it be easier to reduce his time outside gradually? What we’ve heard from many adopters who try this, it doesn’t seem to work well in most cases – perhaps it keeps reminding them how much fun it is outside, and what you want to do is make him realize how much fun it is to be inside!

We hope these tips help you transition your outdoor cat to be a happy healthy and safe indoor kitty!

Solitary confinement in a windowless room  punishes the occupant by a lack of interaction with the outside world. Caring cat people often worry that confining a cat to be an indoor-only pet is a similar type of punishment, but it doesn’t have to be! If you’re reading this article, we likely don’t have to tell you about the numerous health, behavior, and safety benefits of keeping your cat always inside your home. So we’re here to help you with five helpful tips for keeping an indoor cat happy which will help keep him healthy too.

Five things you can provide to keep your indoor cat happy:

1. Room with a view: In the photo above, my two foster cats are enjoying bird-watching from their fully-screened-in “catio” porch. In my new house, I haven’t built a catio (yet!) and my windows don’t have cat-width sills. So I arranged my furniture in front of the windows that to provide the best cat-viewing possibilities of the trees, birds, squirrels, and neighbors walking by.  Think of it as cat TV – live! A great view helps keep their mind entertained.

2. Room with a breeze: Cats love to sniff the outside air, but make sure to secure your screens! If you can push on your screen and it pops out, a cat could do that too! My screens were old so I replaced them with stronger “pet-proof” screens and also added screws to make the frames extra secure.

3.  Grass under their paws:  My catio had a grass dirt floor so I was able to put down some sod. Even indoors you can give them a mini grass lawn using a planter! Place it next to your biggest securely-screened in window with the best view using a planter on a table. If sod isn’t a possibility, provide other cat-friendly cat-sized surfaces for lounging at different heights.

4. Sunbathing: Outside cats will spend hours lounging in the sun. Cats can get skin cancer from too much sun and especially if they have light-colored fur or skin, so allow sunbathing in moderation, especially in warmer climates.

5. Exercise: Outside cats get to climb trees, hunt bugs and other creatures, and stalk through bushes and grass. Kittens and younger cats need lots of exercise to take care of this need and stay happy indoors! Older cats may need less, but they still need daily exercise too. Give them plenty of places to climb, hide, run, and jump inside (like by adding cat shelving, carpeted cat trees, cardboard boxes, etc) and encourage them to use them by playing on them with a laser toy and then their favorite toys on a string – make sure you let them catch the toy at the end so they finish satisfied.  Jackson Galaxy has some great articles on playing with your cat and figuring out what games you and she prefer.

We hope these tips help you give your indoor-cat a long happy and healthy life! Come back to our blog next week as we’ll post tips for transitioning an outdoor or outdoor/indoor cat to indoors-only too.

There are so many different styles of dogs leashes, how do you know what is best and safest for you and your dog? A nylon 4′ leash or a 16′ cord retractable leash like a Flexileash? A 6-foot leather leash or a rope slip-leash? You’re a good pet parent and want to keep your pet safe, but the choices can be overwhelming, and you might not be aware of the dangers lurking behind the choice of which leash you use on your dog. Here are ten dog leash tips to help get your walk started on the right foot, er, paw.

1. Leash training: Any type of leash won’t do you much good if your dog isn’t trained to walk well on a leash. If your dog is pulling, try this training article. If you have a puppy or dog unfamiliar with being walked on a leash, try our Teach Your Dog or Puppy to Walk on a Leash article.

2. Leash Material: 1/2″ to 1″ flat nylon is my favorite. Even for tiny 5-pound dogs, I prefer the 1/2″ thickness, as the thinner leashes are just too likely to slip from hand. If you have a bigger or strong dog, don’t skimp on leash quality.

3. Clasp style: Quick snap. The most common kind of dog leash clasp is the bolt snap aka snap hook. That’s the kind that looks like this:

Some heavier-duty leashes use trigger snap hooks, but they pose the same risk in my experience as the bolt snap: the release can get triggered if it gets caught on the dog’s collar or harness and come undone! The safest kind of clasp I’ve seen on a dog leash locks like a mountain climber’s carabiner, like those on the Tuenne leash seen below:

4. Leash length: Depends on the environment and height of your dog. If you’ll be walking your dog along the edge of the road or on a crowded sidewalk, shorter is better. While you can always wrap a longer leash around your hand, having the handle be at a short length makes it much easier to keep your dog right at your side, the safest place to be. For small to medium height dogs, a 4-foot leash works well. For taller dogs, a 2-foot “traffic length” leash may be ideal. If you’re walking on wide sidewalks with or in the country, 6-foot nylon leashes give your dog plenty of sniffing radius.

5. Leash style: Flat nylon – not retractable. I have to confess, I used to be a retractable leash walker. I would walk my two big dogs everywhere on the longest Flexi leashes they made! When the first squirrel incident sent me to urgent care for the rope burn wound on my leg, even then I only switched from the rope-style to the tape-style… until I watched in horror as a neighbor, walking his dog across the street from us on a retractable leash, had his dog dart unexpectedly towards us to say hello, and was hit and killed by a car.

Retractable leashescan be used safely. If you’re walking to a park or other traffic and pedestrian-free area, please keep the lock securely locked from the moment before your open your front door until you get there. Don’t rely on being able to press the lock with your finger in time.

We hope you find these 5 best dog leash tips helpful in your dog leash selection!

Could it be true… is a bag of potato chips dangerous for dogs? Yes! Sadly we know this because of a horrible accident with a friend’s dog. He managed to get a bag of potato chips off the counter while his people were sleeping. When they woke up, it was to find their beloved pet suffocated by the bag. So horrible! He put his head in the bag trying to lick all the chips out, and the bag got stuck on his head covering his face, and he couldn’t breathe. Newer chip bags are made from material that is very hard to tear, and though he must have tried to get it off his head, he couldn’t before he passed out, and eventually died from lack of oxygen. We’re sharing this very sad story as a warning to all dog owners: keep potato chip and other snack bags totally out of reach of your dogs. Keep them closed inside top kitchen cabinets, just like you’d keep plastic bags out of reach of small children and babies. We hope this safety tip keeps dogs safe from the dangers of potato chip bags.

Curtains and blinds make great cat toys… said no cat owner, ever! Plenty of cats and kittens do find the swaying curtain pulls, shimmering sheers, and horizontal mini-blinds not only irresistible for hiding, pouncing, and batting, but they also are clearly thinking, “Why does my human keep putting them in the way of my view of the fascinating things going on outside?” Finding “kitten-proof” window treatments that will work for what you want them to do on your windows and not have your cats destroy them can take compromise and detective work. We present you with example number one, in the photo above. In the photo you see James, my 8-month old foster kitten, who has not only managed to wrap himself up in the sheer curtain, but figured out its a great way to make batting at the almost-cat-proof plastic plant even more fun. I managed to snap the photo just before he executed a perfect jelly roll move that took him and the tension curtain rod tumbling to the ground. Mini blinds seem to suffer the worst, with the metal slats being so easily bent and plenty of cloth cords to be chewed on too! So are there cat-proof curtains? Yes! Read on for some ideas.

Don’t forget that most cats LOVE to see what’s going on outside. Please don’t deprive them of that pleasure! When planning your window coverings, include kitty window perches where they can see out unobstructed.

1. Vertical blinds. Before you shudder at the 70s flashback, vertical blinds have come a long way since their motel beginnings. Check out the gorgeous modern vertical blinds on Houzz for example. Many use larger panels of fabric, so choose ones that are smooth and less likely to be a scratch temptation.

2. Wooden shutters.  Virtually indestructible, especially if made of a smooth hard composite material. You can also open them enough so kitty can see out, but still keep out most of the light and still protect your privacy.

3. Wood or faux wood blinds. These look like thicker mini-blinds, but because of their weight and heft, are often not as easily destroyed by playful cats. Make sure you keep the pull cord securely wrapped up and out of kitty’s reach!

4. Any curtains you want, just keep Nail Caps on your cat! Most curtain damage is done by the cat’s claws. If you keep soft kitty nail caps on your cat’s front claws, the damage they can do with their paws is eliminated. As long as you don’t have a chewer, this could be your least expensive solution.

Cats meow to communicate. Most often domestic cats are meowing to try to tell their humans something. Usually humans appreciate these vocal requests, being such vocally communicative creatures ourselves. But when a cat is meowing at night when we (and our neighbors) are trying to sleep, that’s not usually appreciated! Cats are naturally nocturnal beings. If you have a cat that is meowing at night and you want him to stop, it typically involves a bit of detective work and trial-and-error figuring out what will be a happy resolution to what is causing the meowing and making him stop. The first step is to try to figuring out why he is meowing. Here are some things a cat’s meow at night could be trying to tell you:

– I’m lonely/bored/stressed

– I’m hungry (or think I’m hungry)

– I’m thirsty

– I want to be let in (if he’s locked out of the bedroom for example)

– I want to go outside

– I miss my mom (most often baby kittens, but older cats too)

Ideally the solution will eliminate the reason for the nighttime meowing before it starts. Once you’ve gone to bed and your cats starts meowing, if you get up to do something about it, you are teaching you cat — or rather, your cat is training you — that if he meows, you’ll get up and do something. That’s rewarding the unwanted behavior. You might want to invest in some ear plugs for your household and neighbors while you give the various solutions a try!

Note: These solutions are not the only possible solutions! They are just ideas to get you started on figuring out the best solution for your household and your cat.

Solution for lonely/bored/stressed: One hour before bedtime, engage Kitty in 45 minutes of playtime and games. The last 15 minutes are spent giving Kitty attention, but of the low-key kind, like talking to him, snuggling with him if he likes that. Some cats loves being read a bedtime story! We are often so busy with our lives, and cats appear to be so low-maintenance, but some cats need more physical and emotional attention that they are getting, which is why they are meowing at night.

If you recently moved or adopted a new cat, they may be meowing because they are stressed. They may be calling out to try to locate their past home, or cat friends. Giving your cat time to adjust to the new home may be all it takes, but you can speed that along and help your cat be less stressed by:

1. Get your cat on a solid steady routine, cats find routine reassuring.
2. Use calming pheremone plugins (i.e. ComfortZone or Feliway) in every room.
3. Give your cat plenty of hiding places, either up high if they like being up high, or under things like under your bed if they are happier there.

Solution for I’m hungry/thirsty: Feed your cat meals instead of free-feeding, if you are free feeding. Or if you are gone most of the day, free-feed while you are gone, but take up the food when you get home.Or use a time-release cat feeder. Then put down the free-feeding dish right before you go to bed. Alternately, feed your cat a bedtime snack of wet food.

Solution for I want to be let in: If you are locking Kitty out of the bedroom because he wants to sleep with his belly across your face, try getting him a super awesome carpet cat tree (aka cat condo) with the U-shaped or O-shaped kitty sleeping perches, and put it right next to your bed, making sure one of the sleeping perches is higher than your head – cats often want to be higher than us. If Kitty is locked out because he attacks your feet as they move under the covers, one hour before bedtime, engage Kitty in 45 minutes of running-around playtime and games, then 15 minutes of mellow winding-down playtime.

Solutions for I want to go outside: This is typically a cat who goes out during the day, or who used to be allowed to go outside, but is now being kept inside at night for his own safety. GiveKitty access to an open but securely screened in window with a kitty perch where he can feel as if he’s outside, or build him a catio (it doesn’t have to be large) and install a cat door so he can go in and out without needing your assistance.

Solutions for I want my mom: Lots of cuddle time before bed, and if you can have kitty sleep in bed with you, that will often solve this problem. If kitty is too small to be safely in bed with you, and you don’t have or can’t get your kitty a real feline friend, a stuffed animal the size of another cat or kitten can help. They even make them with heartbeat noises!

Rarely, cats may have high anxiety from traumatic past experiences that causes nighttime meowing. These cats may need a professional cat behaviorist or veterinarian’s help to stop their night time meowing.

We hope these solutions for your cat meowing at night are helpful!

Bulldog puppies are so cute with their wrinkled little faces! You can find Bulldog puppies and dogs for adoption across the US and Canada on  Adopt-a-Pet.com here. Like Pugsley in the photo, who’s for adoption as of the posting of this article. He’s 16 weeks old, super sweet and super smush face! Finding a purebred Bulldog puppy might take a bit of searching and patience, especially one local to you. The good news is Bulldogs are super cute at any age! Plus if you adopt a young or adult Bully instead of a puppy, you’ll be more likely to know what kind of personality and health issues you’re getting, which you can’t see fully or at all in a puppy. Plus you won’t have to worry about puppy messes, puppy training, and puppy chewed up shoes! Bulldog mix puppies are super cute too! So what should you know about Bulldogs before you adopt them?

First let’s talk about the breed name. Bulldog is the exact same breed as English Bulldog aka British Bulldog — the AKC uses Bulldog as the breed name, but you might see breeders and rescues using the name English Bulldog. They just different names for the same dog breed. There are three different dog breeds with “Bulldog” in the name too. They are American Bulldog, French Bulldog, and Olde English Bulldog also spelled Olde English Bulldogge. There’s also the Boston Terrier which looks so much like the French Bulldog it can be hard to tell them apart! The American and Olde English breeds are bigger and taller than a regular Bulldog, while Frenchies and Bostons are smaller. What about Miniature Bulldog or Mini Bulldog breeds? The breed name “Miniature Bulldog” is not recognized by the AKC and so it is not officially considered a separate breed. Mini Bulldogs are either just very small Bulldogs or sometimes a mix of a Bulldog and a smaller breed dog.

Colors! Bulldogs come in a wide variety of colors. You’ll find Bulldogs that are red brindle, all other colors of brindles, solid white, solid red, fawn, and piebald. Many of the Bulldog colors have patches of white too.

For Bulldog tips, we defer to the Bulldog experts for information about personalities, training, and health: Bulldog Rescues! Even if you buy a purebred Bulldog puppy from a breeder, you can benefit from the knowledge that Bulldog Rescues have learned from helping so many abandoned Bulldogs, so that you can keep your Bulldog happy and healthy for their entire life. Thanks to Love a bull English Bulldog Rescue www.arizonabulldogs.com for letting us share their excellent article “What you need to know about rescue bulldogs” which we’ve reprinted below!

What you need to know about rescue bulldogs

Please read entire article before considering adoption.

A Bulldog may not be the right choice for every family. Living with a Bulldog can be very rewarding, but you must be committed to meeting the Bulldog’s particular needs.   They are, in my opinion, the greatest dog in the world! (I am bias!)  With that said, they are a lot more work than other breeds of dogs.  They want to be with you all the time.  They are wonderful companions, but if you do not have the time to dedicate to a bulldog, do not apply to adopt.  Remember: these dogs are rescue dogs.  They are going to need extra special care.

Some things to consider:

Bulldogs are perpetual children: they never grow up. A Bulldog does best in a loving environment, free from fear and neglect. They are happiest when with people and require lots of attention from people. When left alone, Bulldogs can be very destructive. They may chew throughout their lifetimes. They may need to be crated when they are not being supervised. A Bulldog should never be left unattended in your backyard. Not only is it dangerous to your Bulldog’s wellbeing, but Bulldogs are often targeted for theft.

Please keep in mind that rescued Bulldogs are not always happy, healthy or well adjusted. If you are considering adopting a rescue it should be because you are committed to giving a homeless dog a second chance.This means having the time and patience to work with social, emotional and behavioral problems. In some cases, a health issue is present. Many rescued Bulldogs don’t get along with other animals and some can’t be placed with children. If you’re seeking a rescue as a way to obtain a cheap Bulldog, you’ve come to the wrong place. You must be passionate about the breed to accept what baggage comes along. Also, rescue is not the place to be looking for a puppy.  We rarely get in dogs under 2 years of age. IF YOU ARE WANTING A HEALTHY, YOUNG BULLDOG, YOUR WAIT WILL BE A LONG ONE.
Danger of Overheating:

Bulldogs are extremely intolerant of heat. They must be kept in an air-conditioned area with limited trips outside when the outside temperature is over 80 degrees or the humidity is high. Close supervision is required during outside activity, especially in spring and summer to prevent over-exertion leading to over-heating. They also are not usually capable of prolonged physical activity whether the temperature is very warm or cold: a Bulldog is not for someone who enjoys taking a dog for long walks through the countryside.

There is a limit to how much strenuous physical activity a typical Bulldog can safely tolerate. Their short muzzles and narrow windpipes, relative to the size of their bodies, limits their oxygen intake and causes them to become easily winded. This can result in acute respiratory distress and sometimes death. Like it or not, most Bulldogs do not have great physical endurance. They are more like short-distance sprinters than long-distance runners. Bulldogs don’t realize this; your own common sense must prevail.

After Adoption:

Although all Bulldogs that we place are subjected to a thorough veterinary examination and are evaluated for soundness of temperament, we do not guarantee that they will not have any problems in their new homes. In fact, a period of adjustment is expected during which the Bulldog and the new owner will be getting acquainted with each other, and the Bulldog will be “settling in” to a new routine.   Most rescues will have potty training issues in their new home.  You have to be ready to deal with that.  I will be more than happy to discuss what works for me, but you have to know that there will be accidents.

If we have any doubts about a Bulldog’s ability to deal with certain situations, we put restrictions on the type of home in which it will be placed (for example, by requiring no young children and/or no other pets.) We also provide guidelines for the new owners to ensure that they are aware of any special treatment the Bulldog may require. With the application of a little common sense in following the guidelines, new owners will find the transition into owning a rescue Bulldog to be relatively simple.
NO SWIMMING

You may have heard Bulldogs do not swim.  You are right.  I cannot tell you how many people I have known or heard of who have lost their beloved bullys in a pool.  Just like children, most bulldogs love to swim.  They will jump right in before you know it.  They sink like an anchor.  This is why at rescue, we do not adopt to homes with unfenced pools.  There are NO EXCEPTIONS. 

Ready to adopt a Bulldog? Find Bulldogs for adoption near you using Adopt-a-Pet.com.

“Mom, can I have a pony?” I may have asked that question over a hundred times a hundred different ways when I was growing up. We lived in a big city but that didn’t phase me. I drew ponies, played pony games, and inspired by visits to suburban stables, created elaborate equestrian centers out of blocks with plastic horses and Barbie doll riders. When I was 10 years old we moved to the suburbs – right next to a real horseback riding academy! Fast forward a few years later, and my family adopted a retired one-eyed pony named Danny, making my pony dreams come true. (That’s him in my photo above, lowering his head so my young helper could more easily put his halter on.) By age 12 I knew the tremendous responsibility and costs involved with properly caring for a pony, as they’d been explained to me all the years I’d been asking for a pony. If you have a child or you yourself are exploring the idea of adopting a pony or adopting a horse, here are some of the factors to consider.

• Are you ready for a lifetime commitment? Ponies can live 30 years or more. My one-eyed pony Danny lived to be 44 years old!
• A pony is expensive! Even if you keep the pony on your own property so you don’t have boarding costs, you still have to pay for vet care and shoeing, and most likely hay, feed, bedding. Plus there’s the occasional expenses of replacing items as they wear out like blankets, buckets, brushes, halter, lead rope, bridle, saddle, saddle pad, and then your own safety and riding gear like a helmet and riding boots too. Oh, and there’s upkeep of the pony’s housing (barn or run-in shed) and disposal of their manure too.
• Ponies need daily care. Like other animals, a pony can’t just be left in a field to fend for himself. Someone – if not you, someone you pay – needs to check on them daily or multiple times day, muck their stall or pick up manure from the pasture, fill their water, give them hay or feed.

My pony Danny was my best friend when I was growing up. He was my confident, my racing buddy, and a source of great love and fun! He taught me so much about responsibility and kindness through caring for an animal. If your child asks you, “Can I have a pony?” I hope you’ll consider making their pony dreams come true!

Did you like this article? See our other pony-centric articles about adopting a horse and how much does it cost to care for a horse too!

“This is Jecht (formerly known as Nemo). He’s been a part of our family for a week and a half, and already none of us could imagine life without him. We are all in better health from the walks and runs we take him on. He already tracks with us with great proficiency (although he gets annoyed with how slow and loud we are). He has made friends with all the dog friendly pups in the neighborhood, and even a couple that have never been dog friendly before. He has the perfect personality, friendly-gentle-playful-loving. Sleeps in four different beds every night, because he just can’t choose one of us. We never would have found him if not for your site, as he hails from Arkansas and we from New Hampshire. Thank you so much for all you do for all our four legged friends!!! You help bring them home, you help us find our perfect companions, no matter how far away they are. I can’t tell you how much Jecht means to my whole family!!!” — Jennifer A shared this Happy Beginnings story and photo with us on our Adopt-a-Pet.com Facebook page. We love hearing stories about how Adopt-a-Pet.com helped a homeless pet find a new loving home. We’d love to hear your Happy Beginnings story too! Send your pet adoption story to info@cms.adoptapet.com with a photo or two, and tell us how Adopt-a-Pet.com helped you with your adoption. Thank you for adopting a pet and saving a life!