New Year's Eve Pet Safety

Dog-Cat-fireworksBig parties, crowds, fireworks, and… fun? New pet owners often don’t realize that the noise and festivities that often accompany New Year’s Eve – even if you’re staying home and watching them on TV – aren’t much fun for most pets! My dog, like many dogs, is terrified of fireworks. He doesn’t know the ones exploding on the surround sound system aren’t the real thing lighting up the corner of our living room. He barks at dogs barking on the TV too – I like to think he’s very “sound aware”  but my other pets look at him like, “Dude, its on TV.” When the fireworks and happy screaming people are on TV, obviously its easy enough to turn the volume down. But what can you do if you or a close neighbor are having a New Year’s Eve party with noisemakers and revelry? Here is our NYE countdown of tips to help your pets enjoy Auld Lang Syne safely:

5. Up-to-date ID
Parties mean doors getting opened a lot. Even if you’ve thoughtfully hung a sign on your bedroom door saying do not open, or if you have your pets safely contained in a crate inside the bedroom (wearing safety breakaway collars only in a crate), accidents happen.  Make sure your pet ID tags and microchip information has your current address and phone numbers.

4. Exercise
For dogs and even cats, giving them plenty of exercise on New Year’s Eve day will help them to rest more peacefully that night. Plus a good long walk or hike with your dog will help you burn off those extra holiday calories too!

3. No human food
If your pet is going to be out loose in your home during a party, make sure every single guest agrees NO HUMAN FOOD FOR PETS. The #1 reason pet owners end up at the emergency vet on New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day is because a pet is sick from too much people food, or the wrong people food. Even human foods you think are “safe” for pets can cause pancreatisis, which can be fatal.

2. White noise
Loud music and fireworks can upset even the calmest of pets. If you don’t have a white noise machine, putting classical music on where the pet can hear it can help cover up outside upsetting noises. If you have an anxious sound-sensitive dog, many pet owners find relief using a Thundershirt pet wrap, available at most pet supply stores.

1. Happy New Year!

Did you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

Amazing Cat Cardboard Box Castle

This seemed like an appropriate post for the Boxing Day holiday! What do cats like more than a cardboard box? How about multiple cardboard boxes attached together with cutouts creating tunnels and multilevel fun! We love what this awesome cat-loving owner did for his cat Rufus, to make up for having just gone through a painful ear infection. We were inspired to make a mini cardboard box cat castle for our foster cats holiday present, and though it wasn’t worthy of millions of views on YouTube like Rufus’ video received (you can watch the video below) it was a huge hit in our catio! What a great way to recycle large gift boxes or those inevitably huge online shopping boxes that arrive with the ordered item hidden inside of reams of packing paper. If you don’t have any boxes readily available, often a search of your local Craigslist can turn up people cheaply selling or giving away moving boxes, often just after the 1st or the 15th of the month, the most common moving dates. Please make sure your boxes weren’t used for anything that might not be good for your cat, and use nontoxic glue or tape to attach them together. The cardboard box cat castle configurations  — and fun — are almost endless! Watch the Rufus Tower video below to see what we mean.

You can find a cat like Rufus to adopt near you at http://www.adoptapet.com. Did you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!
Learn more about Jennifer, our blog author at Google+
 

Holiday Decoration Safety for Pets

Simon’s cat is adorably troublesome in his Santa Claws video climbing the Christmas tree, knocking the ornaments off one by one, and… well, I won’t spoil the whole thing so you can watch it below! But for non-animated real-life cats and other pets, holiday decorations can pose a real hazard, not just a decorating frustration. Vets report that the most emergency room visits, is from pets eating people food, is tinsel, ribbons, or other wrapping or decorating items. Especially tinsel and ribbons can form blockages that require complicated emergency surgery to save the pets life! There are plenty of pet-safe ways to make your holiday home festive and bright. If you have a dog, cat, or other pet that likes to chew, the safest thing is to keep all ornamentation and lighting completely out of reach — or the pet out of the room! Just like kitten, puppy or child proofing your home year-round, the holidays are a time when pet owners and families with pets visiting can avoid an expensive or tragic vet visit with a little planning and common sense. Now, enough with the serious warnings, and enjoy Simon’s cat antics in his silly little cartoon video!

Santa Claws – Simon’s Cat Video

Top 5 Winter Hazards for Pets

Keep your pets safe this winter! Learn more about the Top 5 Winter Hazards for your pets here…. Rock salt, antifreeze and mistletoe – oh my!  The holiday season brings many pleasures to our four-legged friends: family gatherings, big meals, special trips, and in many areas some chilly white fluffy stuff to frolic in.  However, many pet owners don’t realize that when the temperatures drop, the unexpected risks for pets rise. So we’ve teamed with celebrity veterinarian Dr. Patrick Mahaney, pet expert for PerezHilton.com’s TeddyHilton.com pet website, to uncover the Top Five Winter Hazards that can be life-threatening for pets!

Rock Salt:  If you live in a cold climate where winter brings snow and ice, then you’re familiar with our first hazard.  Rock salt, also called road salt, is sodium chloride mixed with other chemical additives and is used to keep sidewalks and roadways from being too slippery from ice.  While the mixture works well, it is very tough on our pets’ paws and can be extremely dangerous if ingested.  Other de-icing agents should also be avoided in areas where pets congregate.

Antifreeze:  Pets may be drawn to this popular engine coolant because it has a sweet taste, but this exceedingly toxic substance that contains ethylene glycol can be found anywhere vehicles drive or park, including streets, roadways, parking lots, or even your own driveway.  If ingested, this fluorescent green fluid can cause kidney failure or even death in pets, and since it’s used to control the freezing and boiling point of liquids, antifreeze is not exclusively a winter hazard, but also quite dangerous during the warmer months as well.

Heating Sources:  Pets may enjoy cozying up near the fireplace to bask in the warmth, but this activity is dangerous because of the exposure to flames and increased temperatures that can potentially burn their skin.  In addition, pet parents need to be extra cautious when exposing their furry friends to electric blankets and space heaters because these electrical items can become toxic or harmful.

Winter Plants:  Although they look pretty, many holiday plants can be poisonous to pets.  Mistletoe, Poinsettias, Holly and Christmas Cactus are all extremely toxic and can cause severe gastrointestinal, cardiovascular, and neurologic effects if ingested.  Christmas trees are also hazardous because not only are the pine needles poisonous, but also because of the bacteria and fertilizer harbored in the water stands (which pets are known to drink).  Additionally, decorations such as tinsel can also be very noxious if consumed.

Festive Foods:  Meats and sweets are treats that pets beg for, but are serious no no’s when it comes to your pet’s health.  Turkey and other holiday meats are very high in protein, but if meats in their natural form are not a regular part of their diet, they can be hard to digest, which can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, or inflammation of the pancreas.  Chocolate may be the best-known food danger for pets because it contains caffeine.  Dogs in particular do not metabolize these stimulants in their liver, and elevations in heart rate, blood pressure, or even seizures, coma, or death can occur.  Of course, all candy is high in sugar, which can cause digestive issues for all pets.
“During the holiday season, we want to ensure that everyone enjoys a fun and safe celebration, which includes taking a few extra precautions for your beloved pets,” remarked Dr. Patrick Mahaney.  “Just avoiding the hazardous elements that pose even a remote threat to your pets could make a huge difference in their health and wellness.”

Watch videos with celebrity veterinarian Dr. Patrick Mahaney explaining winter hazards for pets at adoptapet.com/winterhazards.

Do you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

Happy Beginnings: Sami the cat

Ready for another happy adoption smile? We loving sharing happy adoption stories from adopters who have  used Adopt-a-Pet.com pet search and often our free Search Saver email service to find their new furry friend! Want to help spread the joy of pet adoption by sharing your happy beginnings story with our readers? Send an email to info@cms.adoptapet.com and include a photo of your pet, the name of the shelter or rescue where you adopted your pet, your city, state, and the story telling us how Adopt-a-Pet.com helped you find and adopt your pet! Here’s the email we received about gorgeous girl Sami who found her a Forever Home at last.

“Our Sami had lived in two animal hospitals and one or two homes before I saw her at Cat Tales, Inc Rescue at Petco in Warminster, PA. Her information said that the other kitties in the home didn’t like her and that she would do well in a home without other pets or young children. Having lost our beloved Rosie, a calico, to feline leukemia six months previously, our hearts were open to a new kitty, and our home met the requirements.

Sami surprises us in many ways. She doesn’t jump into boxes or laundry baskets. She “talks” to us quite often, but especially when it is getting close to meal time. In the afternoon, she often follows us upstairs, as she is convinced that it must be close to mealtime. She is friendly and likes to meet anyone who comes to the door. She will sit with us at the dinner table. She has had to go on diet food, so that she can regain her girlish figure. Her favorite toys are her red
mouse and the laser mouse that Rosie gave her. She also likes to cuddle with her Mom and Dad. – Steve & Harriet”

Do you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

Help, I found a stray kitty!

Meow! Meow! Meow! Cat rescuers seem to have built in super-hearing when its a cat or kitten’s cries for help! I’ve been asleep and woken up by hearing a meowing kitten under a car in front of my house in the middle of the night. What do you do if you find a stray kitten or cat? How do you know if he was abandoned, is lost, or is just out for a stroll? What about a cat that seems sick, should you rush him to the emergency vet, wait till the morning, or care for him yourself? These are complicated questions and every situation is different, but given my stray-cat-magnet abilities (stray cats and kittens regularly materialize no matter where we are), I’ve written some tips and steps you can follow to help make sure the kitten or cat you find is well-cared for while you try to locate his owner, or a rescue or a new home to adopt him.

If the cat is a healthy-looking well-cared for adult, he or she may be a neighborhood cat paying you a visit – how do you know? This really depends on your neighborhood and the cat. There are some neighborhoods where many cats are free roaming, loosely owned by people that feed them. In my neighborhood, even with coyotes having killed most of the outdoor cats, we still have a few. If I am approached by cat that appears to be asking for help, is wearing a tag, or is one I haven’t seen around before, if he agrees I will take him inside and try to locate his owner.

“Help I found a friendly dirty skinny meowing kitten! What should I do first?”

FIRST HALF-HOUR

1. Isolate if you have other pets.
Stray kittens often have fleas, mites, or other sicknesses that can be highly contagious to other cats or dogs. Shut the kitten in your bathroom and stuff towels along any gaps under doors. Do not allow them to interact with your other pets.

2. Immediate care.
Make sure they are warm, dry, have water and food. If you don’t have canned cat food or dog food, 1/4 cup of cooked boneless chicken is safe. Some bathroom floors are cold, so make a thick nest of towels to keep kitten as warm as possible. If kitten is wet or really cold, you can dry & warm him with a hair dryer set on “low” heat and gently warm the air around him from a foot or so away while you hold him in your arms. Don’t blow directly on him.

3. Ask your neighbors.
Sometimes kittens get out and can look pretty bad after just a few days. Kittens usually don’t go far. Canvas your neighbors to see if anyone lost their kitten.

FIRST DAY

If you’ve decided you are going to keep the kitten, either for yourself or to find him a rescue or adopter, here are some good steps to follow for the first few days of care.

1. Vet checkup
First ask them to scan the kitten for a microchip. You usually don’t even need an appointment for a chip scan, but it is certainly advisable to get them a checkup in the first day so they can be treated for fleas and parasites (super common in kittens found outside), and tested for Feline Leukemia and FIV before being vaccinated.

2. Intro to pets
After the vet checkup says kitten is healthy, you can decide if you want to try an intro to your other pets. Be aware that some sicknesses (colds and viruses) can incubate for up to two weeks, so follow the advice of your vet when it is safe to intro to your pets.  Check out our Cat to Cat and Cat to Dog intro articles.

3. Take photos, ask for help
Cat rescuers are a dedicated and knowledgeable bunch! Many will be very happy to help a sympathetic cat-caring newbie rescuer with much more advice tailored specifically for your found kitten or cat, your area, and your home.  Especially if you email them a cute photo of your furry find and let them know you are willing to foster (or are adopting) and are just looking for their expertise. Facebook is also a great way to reach out to friends and friends of friends — you might be surprised to discover how many cat enthusiasts you almost know!

4. Find him a home?
If you housed the cat for the legally required amount of time (varies by city) and have not been able to find the cat’s owner, and you are able to temporarily care for the stray kitty until you can find a permanent home, try creating a profile on Rehome. The online Rehome by Adopt-a-Pet.com service can help you find an adoptive home for the stray you found after the legal stray holding period is over. Once you create a Rehome pet profile, the cat will be posted on Adopt-a-Pet.com to help you find a local adopter.

Condolences for a family pet

A few weeks ago, I lost my beloved companion dog of 14 years.  Her name was Claire, and I called her my “sweet stubborn soul mate.” Given the choice, she would not let me out of her sight, and her absence created a huge empty space in my life, as well as my heart. With her passing, friends and family gathered around to console me and my husband. The last time a dearly-loved pet of my died was pre-Facebook… this time, the immediate outpouring of support and kindness was almost overwhelming. Some of their letters touched me so deeply. When my friends and family’s pets have died, I always feel tongue-tied. What could I possibly say or write to someone that has lost their fur kid?  So I thought I would share three of the incredible condolence gestures I received. Please feel free to copy them, edit them, use them in any way that might help you reach out to someone suffering a loss of their pet.

A pet condolence letter…

“Hi Jennifer- I will call you this afternoon.  I am just catching up on emails and I see that Claire passed away. No one can understand the special bond you had with each other, but having had similar bonds with a few soul mates in my life, I can share these thoughts. Claire is free- free from any pain or suffering.  She is with you and around you- in your heart.  After so much care that you gave to her, It is you who now needs care.  I’m sure you know that only time will heal your pain, and all that will remain is every bit of the love you have and had for Claire, and that she had and has for you.  You are an angel for the animals.  You help so many helpless animals in so many ways, indirectly and directly.  Claire won the lottery of all lotteries to have met you, and I’m sure you feel the same way about her.  We love you and support you.”

A poem written about Claire….

I am so sorry and wanted to express my condolences in the form of a poem that I wrote or I should say, that I channeled. I feel it came as a message to me from my angel dogs who have crossed over. 

If you wake up one day
To find me gone
It will be cause my time has finally come

But please dont be afriad 
That you’ll never see me again

And please promise you’ll have the strength to carry on

Because I’m always gonna love you
Let your heart be open wide

Just whisper my name and say the words I love you
and I promise I’ll always be right my your side 
And know I’m always gonna love you
Though the tears may fall from your eyes 
You will see me again at the bridge
where the rainbow ends
and until that time my spirit will be your guide.

Light a candle. See it glow
Plant a flowering tree for me and watch it grow
I will see you again at the bridge where the rainbow ends
and when you look at them I want you to know

I’ll be there in the flame cause my spirit remains

And when you look at them I want you to know

That I’m always gonna love you

 

– Periel Stanfield

 


A pet rescued in Claire’s honor…

This gesture still brings tears to my eyes with its compassion and generosity. A coworker told me she would like to save a dog in Claire’s honor, to foster a dog who’s time was up at a local animal shelter. We went together to the shelter and I helped her pick an adorable little dog as she is so caring she wants to take them all home! He happened to be the same golden color and same as Claire when I rescued her — though that’s where the resemblance ends! He is playful, scruffy, kid- and dog-friendly, and once their resident cat has established who was boss, he fit right in to their home, and will make his future adoptive home an amazing pet, just like Claire was for me.


The Claire Fund

My family contacted a local rescue organization that I volunteer for, and together they created a special “fund” that my friends and Claire fans could donate to. The funds would enable the rescue to save another little dog from the shelter. It just so happened that a plea went out from shelter volunteers for a little dog who’s leg was badly injured. The fund (and other generous souls) helped the rescue be able to save her life and get her the surgery she needed so she could run, play, jump, and get adopted.

 

Do you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

 

 

A Quick Guide to Cats… for Dog People

The inspiration for this article came from a conversation I had with my coworker Katya. She is one of the most dog-savvy dog people I know, a certified dog trainer, who writes amazing dog training and dog behavior articles for Adopt-a-Pet.com, as well as her “Ask Katya” video series Woof University. She told me, “My friend was telling me her cat hates being pet on the belly! And I was like WHAT?!?!? My dog would fix a virus off my computer for a belly rub! I had no idea! Someone has to teach me how to love on a cat!” So for all the other dog people out there like Katya who would love to know how to love on a cat, and other important cat-iquette rules cats would really appreciate you following, I’ve put together this quick guide to cats for dog people!

So dog-person, you go over to a friends house, sit down on the couch, and your friend says, “I’ll be right back, say hi to Tabby cat, he’s friendly.” In strolls her big orange tabby cat. He sits down a few feet away and looks at you. You look at him. You want to make friends – but you need help as you don’t speak cat!

Talk to him. Most people-social cats love being talked to. Introduce yourself!

Admire him. Cats especially love being told how handsome or beautiful they are. Unlike dogs, most don’t mind being looked at directly in the eyes, especially if you are commenting on their gorgeous color. Not a hard stare of course! An admiring gaze.

Slow blink. I think of this as a cat way of saying “I like you” or even “I love you.” Cats won’t usually return the blink right away, but you can slow blink a few times at a new cat to let him know you are a friend.

Hold out your hand. Cats appreciate being asked if they would like to be pet. If a known-to-be-friendly cat doesn’t immediately approach you, you can invite him with an outstretched hand. Many cats will accept the invitation by coming over, sniffing your hand, then and rubbing their chin or body against your hand. If he doesn’t, let him set the pace of getting to know you, and let him decide if he’d like to allow petting on your first ‘date’.

Neck and chin scratch first. If he does approach, since many cats prefer a new person scratch their neck under their chin first, try that before reaching over his head to stroke their back.

Don’t over do it. A neck scratch, a few strokes of his back, and then stop. Some cats prefer a few pets only, and you want to make sure you have his permission to proceed. Some cats get overly wound up by too much petting. Since you as a dog person might not recognize those signs, best to wait for his owner to come back before any more petting, or ask if there’s a toy on a string you can play with together.

No belly rubs! Even if Tabby cat flops down and shows you his belly, he is likely NOT asking for a belly rub! Cats usually show humans their belly more as a sign of trust than a desire to have their belly rubbed. (There is the rare exception.)

That’s it! This is just a very basic getting-started guide to meeting a friendly cat. Entire books can and have been written about cats and their behavior. We will have future articles to help you understand some of the BIG differences between dog and cat sounds and body language too, to help you on your way to becoming a cat enthusiast as well as a dog lover!

Do you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

Top 5 Ways to Stop Pet Itching

When my vet recently told me that the number one reason people bring pets to her veterinary hospital is because of itching and related skin issues, I wasn’t surprised. Here in Southern California especially, the dry desert air combined with watered tropical landscaping and natural flora and fauna are a mecca for allergens and itch-causing critters. Dogs especially seem to be prone to scratching fits, but cats are not immune. In the decades I’ve worked and volunteered for large shelters and rescues, I hear the same common complaints time and time again. Dogs scratching ‘hot spot’ sores on their paws, cats itching keeping their owners awake at night, puppies chewing up their tails, red irritated skin and fur falling out every where! So what are the top 5 causes of canines and felines itching and scratching? How can you stop your pet’s discomfort? Ask your vet about our top 5 ways to stop a pet from itching. They are…

1. Fleas. Fleas are the number one reason dogs and cats scratch and itch. If your pet is sensitive to fleas, even one flea can cause a frantic dance. Imagine how you’d feel if there was a bug crawling in your hair and biting you. Even if your pet is on flea control, sometimes it takes multiple methods of both environmental cleanup (daily vacuuming, bed and carpet disinfecting) and products for your pet to fully get the flea problem under control on an ongoing basis. Talk to your vet about what flea control methods they recommend for your pet in your area, and read our 7 Steps To a Flea Free Home here.

2. Food allergy. Just like humans, some pets can have or develop (even after a long time of being fine with it) allergies to certain things they eat. Sometimes simply switching to a different flavor of pet food or treats and eliminating the old ones can stop a pet that is itching. After your vet has ruled out fleas, they may have you do a “food trial” where you temporarily feed a strict limited-ingredient diet for 8 weeks.  Then it can be trial and error process of introducing other foods slowly one at a time until your pet starts itching again. Voila! You’ve identified the tipping point trigger to avoid.

3. Dry skin. Especially when its cold and dry outside, and heated inside, pets can get dry, flaky, itchy skin. Even if you don’t notice flaking, ask your vet if a topical or dietary Omega 3 supplement for pets can help your pet if they have dry skin itchiness.

4. Environment. Pollen, dust, yard sprays, cleaning products, laundry detergent, shampoo, grass, plants… all of these and more can come in contact with your pet’s fur, paws, and skin and be a potential irritant. Figuring out which one or combination is causing your pet to itch can be quite a puzzle. Try one piece at a time. Give your pet a “bath” using just water, thoroughly rinsing their fur all the way down to their skin. Wash their bed and anything else washable (sheets, cushion covers, rugs) in hot water without any detergent. If they go outside, before they come back inside, wipe their paws and legs down with one or more damp papertowels, using long strokes as if you were erasing a blackboard… for dogs you can even dunk their feet in a tray or bucket of warm water to give a quick rinse before coming inside.

5. Stress. Any big life change can cause stress and anxiety in a pet’s life. They may not show it in other ways, but itching due to stress or anxiety is quite common. Ways to reduce a pet stress include: 1) De-stressing any humans the pet comes in contact with, since pets are stress sponges; 2) Establishing a rock-solid routine of feeding, playing, and sleeping at the same times every day; 3) Engaging your pet in more daily exercise they enjoy, be it chasing a laser toy around the living room, or going on a long hike together; 4) Giving them a safety zone hideout. For dogs this can be a crate where they can den up with a favorite chew toy and know they will be safe and undisturbed, for cats it might be a tall cat tree with a big top shelf or hidey-hole, or a nest in the bottom of a rarely used closet.

Your vet plays a key role in helping you figure out if one or more of the above causes and cures is the best treatment protocol for your and your pet. If your pet is suffering, they can suggest medications that can mask the symptoms to give your pet immediate relief while you figure out a permanent solution to your pet’s itching.

Do you like this article? Click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!

Why Won’t My Cat Use The Litter Box? Solving Litter Box Problems

Is your new cat refusing to use its litter box? Explore effective tactics to address and resolve this issue.

Cat Sniffing LitterboxOne of the most frustrating behaviors for a cat owner is litterbox issues. If only cats could talk to tell us why they weren’t using their litterbox! There are so many reasons cats completely stop or won’t use their litterbox all the time. It can take some detective work to figure out the reason or reasons, and the cure or cures. This blog article will give you a step-by-step process to figure out why and fix the problem. Many cat owners I know and I have personally used these steps to solve litterbox problems with many cats, from young kittens to seniors. Litterbox issues are one of the most common reasons cats are surrendered to shelters, but it doesn’t have to be that way. We describe nine steps below in detail – don’t be overwhelmed! Often it only takes finding the right step to get your cat going back in the litterbox again.

To make these steps easier to understand, I’ll call your litterbox-avoiding cat Kitty.

Cats can be sensitive and effected by your mood. They might not show it in a way you understand, but if you are stressed or unhappy when your are cleaning their litterbox or otherwise, Kitty will pick up on that and that may be why he is avoiding the litterbox. Can you change your mood? Sometimes buying a pretty new litterbox and scented litter makes you feel better, and will help Kitty start using it again. Also, as your Kitty gets back on track, don’t forget to lavishly praise Kitty each time he gets it right, and reward him with his favorite treat if you ever see him using his box.

These steps assume you know litter box math: each cat should have their own litterbox plus one extra, so 1 cat = 2 boxes, 2 cats =3 boxes, 3 cats = 4 boxes.

Step 1. Clean up

Cat urine is one of the most difficult smells on the earth to remove. To add to the challenge, cats have an extraordinary sense of smell, and may continue to go if they can smell their prior mess. But it can be done! Remove, sterilize, and store (or throw out) any items Kitty urinated or defecated on outside the box. If Kitty went on more permanent items like your front door or wall-to-wall carpet, thoroughly clean the entire area, and soak with an enzyme pet cleaner for 24 hours. If you can’t close Kitty out of that room, keep him away from it the entire time you are trying the steps below by covering it with a large cat-proof item, like a plastic tarp.

Step 2. “Brand New”

The easiest and fastest thing you can try is adding another brand new litterbox, with new litter, in a new location. Put a brand new litterbox, as big a one as possible and NOT a covered one, filled with fresh all-new litter, as close as you can to where Kitty was eliminating inappropriately the most. This might be right next to your shower if they were using the bath mat, in your closet, on the couch, under a window or in a doorway.

Monitor Kitty for one full day.

Did that stop Kitty from going outside the box? Great! Keep it there for one full week or as long as it would usually take for your Kitty to go outside his box. If you can keep the litterbox in the new location with that kind of litter, your outside-the-box problem may be solved.

What if the new location is not where you want a litterbox?  Gradually – just one foot a day –  move it to where you want it. If Kitty’s peeing or pooping outside the box resumes, move it back. If you get up to two adjacent boxes, keep the 2nd box there for one month. After one month, you can take up the 2nd box – but be aware, even some single cats need two boxes.

Step 3. Medical

If the “brand new” solution didn’t fix your problem in one day, you should take Kitty to your vet ASAP to rule out any medical causes. Often cats will stop using their box to communicate they aren’t feeling well or are in pain. Here are the steps most vets will recommend:

1. A urinalysis to check for infection.

2. A urine CULTURE for elevated bacteria.

3. Blood panel or other tests for illnesses.

4. Feline Prozac or Buspar to relieve anxiety-driven litterbox issues.

Step 3. Litterbox preferences

After your vet has ruled out immediate medical causes, and while you’re waiting on the culture to come back, you can start the process of figuring out if it is the litterbox location, type or depth of litter, cleanliness, or style of box. Kitty may have a particular preference!

In the order listed below, try each of these six options for three days each. Add on the next option after three days if the previous step didn’t get Kitty going in his boxes 100%. If you reach a success combo, keep it up! This takes time, but each option or combination of options could be the key to your success.

  1. Cleanliness: Keep all boxes hospital clean for three days. Dump all litter out daily, scrub with a cat enzyme cleaner (or use a brand new box), replace with 100% clean new litter. Some cats are super clean and don’t want to use a box once it has been used.
  2. Style: add another new litter box, as big as possible, uncovered, with the lowest sides possible.
  3. Type: Fill new box with a different type of litter – try unscented non-clumping Tidy Cats if you weren’t using that.
  4. Soil: Replace new box litter with nice rich potting soil.
  5. Depth: Add more soil to new box and litter to original box make it deeper. Some cats want to dig down first.

Step 4. Location and quantity

Try putting six new litter boxes out in six different locations. You don’t have to buy six new permanent ($$) boxes, you can use the disposable cardboard litter boxes sold in packs at pet supply stores. This is a temporary test to see if something in the two locations you tried previously is scaring or stressing Kitty out so he doesn’t want to go there all the time. If you find Kitty is using one or more boxes and not going outside, after one week remove one he’s using the least. If you’re still okay, then remove one more a week until you are down to the maximum number you can tolerate. If Kitty has an accident, then replace the last one you removed. You may need to combine this with keeping all the boxes super clean for it to work long-term.

Step 5. Stress

After a medical cause, stress and anxiety (territorial or other source) are the most common reasons cats go outside their box. Kitty could be upset over a change in his routine, by someone or something new in the house, or something you can’t figure out! Whatever the cause, you can try these stress relievers:

  1. Rescue Remedy. Effects are immediate. Put it on Kitty’s paw so he’ll lick it off.
  2. Feliway plug-ins in every room. Not cheap, but often more effective than spray or collar versions.
  3. Vet-prescribed kitty Prozac or Buspar.
  4. Soothing music, like a classical or easy listening radio station left on.

Step 6. When left alone

If he only does it while you are gone, it might be your absence that is causing the stress. Kitty may feel less stressed in a smaller secure space. If you have a comfortable well-ventilated heated/cooled bathroom, laundry room, or other kitty bathroom-proof room, close Kitty in that room with a litter box, food, water and a bed every time you go out. If you don’t have a good room, you can use an extra large dog crate, cat playpen, or multi-level cat cage. . Try that for a week every time you go out to give it enough time to see if it helps. You can give Kitty a “treat” of canned food when you close him in there to make it more enjoyable. Use the above four stress relievers as well.

Step 7. Scent and Territory

What are you cleaning with?  If the old smell Kitty was trying to cover is not removed, he may continue to go on that spot. Does Kitty go on the door, on the rug by the door, or under a window?  It could be anxiety-driven territorial marking. Try blocking off where Kitty can see/hear/smell any other cats or dogs outside.

Cat urine smell out of household items – finding one that works for your surfaces can take many tries. If a pet enzyme cleaner isn’t working, a solution of biological laundry detergent with water, soaking the area for 24 hours, and then flushing it can work. So can strong sunlight. With carpets, often the only solution is to remove them.

After you’ve cleaned all the areas where your cat has gone, gently rub a soft cloth over his cheeks, neck, and bottom, then rub the cloth where he went to the bathroom and leave the cloth there. This spreads the cat’s pheromones and scent onto that surface, and will reduce Kitty from needing to put his scent there himself.

Step 8. Bad memories

Some cats have a painful association with going inside a box, like declawed cats who tried to dig with wounded paws, or cats that had a painful urinary infection. So if all the above fails and Kitty is not using the box at all, or only using it for #2 and not #1, close Kitty in the bathroom, with his food, water, and a new clean litterbox. You may need earplugs if Kitty meows to be let out – you’ll need to be strong and be prepared to keep Kitty in there for up at least a few days for this to work.

Cover the floor with newspaper – every square inch! If Kitty goes in the tub, put the newspaper in there. Most cats will go to the bathroom in one location on the floor. Gradually pick up the newspaper where the cat is not going (one or two sheets removed a day). When you are down to two sheets where Kitty is going regularly, take a sheet that has some urine on it and put it on top of a flat piece of cardboard box, or on a cookie tray. Now there should be newspaper only on top of the box/tray, and none on the floor. If Kitty continues to go on the paper on the box/tray, try a brand new low-sided uncovered litterbox (so it won’t smell anything like litter) in the same spot, and put some urine scented newspaper in it. Then the next day, try putting a handful of a new kind of litter in it, that doesn’t smell anything like their old litter. So if they were using clay litter, try the pine dust or ground up corn litter. Often with baby steps you can have them graduate back up to a real litterbox with litter, but sometimes you may have to stick to newspaper or dirt. It’s better than your _______ (insert where your cat was going before here)!

If at any point during the re-introduction process Kitty reverts to going on the uncovered floor, do not panic. An accident or two may happen. But if it’s more than twice, you should take a few steps back and proceed more slowly. If your Kitty was really traumatized, it can take weeks. But a few weeks in a bathroom, while not fun, is worth the chance of getting your Kitty over his trauma and back to using his litterbox.

Step 9. BONUS STEP FOR SPRAYING CATS! Soak Kitty’s fabric collar in his sprayed urine, let it dry, and put it back Kitty, so everywhere he goes, he will smell his own scent, and will not feel he has to spread it by spraying.

With patience, deductive powers and our suggestions, we hope your Kitty will be using his litterbox very soon.

If this article helps you, we’d love to hear from you! You can post a comment on our Facebook page here. Plus you can click an icon below to share it on Facebook, Twitter, and more!