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Do you love dogs?  I mean REALLY love dogs?  Are you super-The Barkfabulous?  Then you MUST subscribe to The Bark, right?  If not, you’re missing out, and we’re not just just saying that because they donate $6 of your subscription to support Adopt-a-Pet.com’s mission of saving homeless pets.  This is seriously the coolest dog magazine on the planet.  Check out what their most recent edition included (the baseball nuts at Adopt-a-Pet.com especially enjoyed the article about Tim Lincecum, and we know he’ll adopt next time!), and you’ll see what we mean! Best of all, The Bark is offering a special deal just for friends and fans of Adopt-a-Pet.com! For only $12 a year, you’ll receive all their helpful tips and insightful articles. Best of all $6 of every subscription goes to Adopt-a-Pet.com so that we can continue finding happy homes for great animals. Subscribe now and you can help homeless pet while reading all about animals!

A Behavioral Alternative to Cat Declawing

cat-declawingThis post is brought to Adopt-a-Pet.com by Dr. Rolan Tripp. Dr. Tripp received his doctorate from UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine and also holds a bachelor’s degree in music and a minor in philosophy. A regular guest on the Animal Planet Network, Dr. Tripp appears on both “Petsburgh, USA” and “Good Dog U.” Cat clawing of objects is a normal behavior that serves a variety of feline needs. The term “sharpening claws” is misleading because the objective is to remove an old claw sheath the way a snake sheds its outgrown skin. The back paw sheaths are removed by chewing. Another natural reason for cats to scratch is to leave a visual and olfactory territorial marker. In the wild, claw-roughened bark is visible from a distance. A feline intruder might then explore the visible marks, and while sniffing, discover the pheromone scent left from the sweat glands in the pads.

The process of clawing is also used to condition and stretch leg and back muscles. For housebound cats experiencing boredom or exercise frustration, clawing is an activity that works off excess energy. There is probably an individual variation in genetic tendency to claw objects because some cats just seem to enjoy the activity regardless of physiological function.

Diagnosis, Prognosis, and Treatment Overview

The first step in controlling destructive feline clawing is to realize that physical punishment such as spanking, shaking, and scolding is unlikely to correct the problem, but very likely to damage the cat’s bond with the owner. Further, the cat simply learns to scratch out of sight.

The preferred alternative is a detailed behavioral evaluation to diagnose the underlying motivation. A behavioral diary should document the actual frequency, duration, intensity, triggers, and targets. This diary can be used both for diagnosis and to monitor progress later. The prognosis is related to the number of motivations, total duration, frequency, intensity, environment, and genetic predisposition.

A behavior treatment plan should address each component motivation. Finally, it is important to understand that the goal is not to stop clawing altogether, but to redirect it to an acceptable substrate. For simplicity, the motivations below will be divided into claw maintenance, stress response, and genetic predisposition.

Claw Maintenance

The first step should be to provide for the cat’s physiological needs. One option is to trim the cat’s nails, then apply a plastic claw cap. An alternative is temporary confinement and claw substrate preference testing. This has the added advantage of immediately limiting the options for destruction.

If available, confine with a familiar cat known to be an appropriate clawer to facilitate observational learning, and decrease emotional isolation. The duration of the confinement is limited to that necessary to identify the problem cat’s claw target preferences. Many pet stores will give refunds for unused products, so the goal is to provide many claw target options, and return for credit the options not used. The most common substrates are carpet, rope, bark, cardboard, or fireplace log. Of the types of carpet, most cats prefer longitudinal instead of lateral weave orientation to facilitate claw sheath removal.

The scratching post height should be sufficient for the cat to stretch, so at least one tall “cat tree” is indicated during testing. Include the currently owned most-used scratching post since cats like to return to a familiar object. Owners often ironically discard an unsightly heavily used scratching post which is the most attractive to the cat. Include both flat on the floor, as well as vertical options such as floor posts or hanging from a door handle. The cat can be gently placed on the post so it is necessary for the cat to use its claws for support, and this introduces the substrate for future use.

Once the preferred object and substrate is determined, the next goal is to determine house locations, then encourage use of these acceptable claw targets. Good locations include near where the cat commonly rests (close for stretching), eats, eliminates, and near any exit door. The most important location is immediately adjacent to a previously used inappropriate target. If used, the new post can be moved 3-6 inches per day. If attractive to the cat, a toy can be placed at the top of the post and catnip can be rubbed into the surface. Verbal praise is indicated, as well as food treats after use if observed by the owner.

The final step is to make the inappropriate targets unattractive. If observed in the act, an air-horn or water spray can be effective if the cat does not associate it with the owner. Anonymity can be facilitated by remote controlled booby traps such as power control of an alarm clock, hair dryer, or tape recording. Other options include a motion detector, double-sided tape, and upside down mouse trap or carpet runner.

Stress Related Clawing

If the cat frequently exhibits anxious body postures, and if the destructive clawing intensity and frequency is beyond that required for normal claw maintenance then a diagnosis of “Stress Related Clawing” may be considered.

One possibility is social stress such as seeing a cat outdoors, a new house cat, or an existing cat that exhibits antagonistic behaviors. There may be intercat social issues about status, indoor territory, or new objects. A second possibility is environmental stress such as construction, redecoration, and human family conflicts or schedule changes. Many young healthy indoor cats probably experience exercise frustration and/or boredom stress. Rhythmic activity is a known stress reliever.

Solutions for these stress influencers are blocking outdoor views, environmental enrichment, increased play, or controlled outdoor excursions. Many types of feline stress are helped by a feline pheromone diffuser. Intercat social stress is more complex requiring assistance from an animal behavior consultant and possible pharmacologic intervention.

Genetic Predisposition

In the author’s opinion, there are three indications of genetic predisposition: 1) if the behavior is observed in close relatives; 2) if observed from early in life; or 3) if all other motivations have been excluded. A genetic predisposition worsens the prognosis. The treatment strategy becomes: focus on other motivations that can be influenced, increase the number of acceptable options, and provide high rewards for appropriate clawing.

Even those governments who outlaw surgical declawing typically include a clause, “except when necessary for a therapeutic purpose.” As a final alternative to euthanasia, some cats adapt to indoor confinement in a 3x4x4 foot “Kitty Kondo” pen as long as they have sufficient supervised play, exercise, and affection time outside the pen from the people in the house – and a place to claw.

About the Author

Dr. Tripp received his doctorate from UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine and also holds a bachelor’s degree in music and a minor in philosophy. A regular guest on the Animal Planet Network, Dr. Tripp appears on both “Petsburgh, USA” and “Good Dog U.” He is a Veterinary Behavior Consultant for Antech Laboratory’s “Dr. Consult Line” and an Affiliate Professor of Applied Animal Behavior at both Colorado State University College of Veterinary Medicine and University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Tripp is the founder of the national behavior consulting practice, www.AnimalBehavior.Net. He is now the Chief Veterinary Pet Behaviorist of The Hannah Society (www.hannahsociety.com) which helps match people and pets, then keeps them together. Contact info: Rolan.Tripp@HannahSociety.com.

References
Beaver, Bonnie. (2003) Feline Behavior: A Guide for Veterinarians 2nd Ed., Saunders.
Horwitz D, Mills D, and Heath S. (2002) Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine, BSAVA. Horwitz D, Neilson J. (2007) Blackwell’s Five-Minute Veterinary Consult; Canine & Feline Behavior, Blackwell. Houpt, Katherine. (2005) Domestic Animal Behavior, Blackwell.
Landsberg G, Hunthausen W, and Ackerman L, (1997) Handbook of behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat, 2nd Ed., Saunders.

What is Wrong with the Step Up Command for Parrots

parrot-adoption-expert-hs This post comes from Barbara Heidenreich, whose experience includes consulting on animal training in zoos and other animal related facilities. Barbara has also written several books on training parrots and has an excellent website (www.goodbirdinc.com) with content on how to live a healthy life with your pet parrot. You can read many FAQ on tips for living with your parrot here, this post will cover how to train your parrot to step up.

It has been reiterated for years in the companion parrot literature…your parrot must obey the step up command! Obey and command. For me these words carry strong implications. I visualize a parrot with no desire to step up onto the hand being forced to comply. This usually involves maneuvers such as a hand pushing into a bird’s chest, quickly scooping a bird onto the hand, or peeling toes off of a perch. For a positive reinforcement trainer such as myself this is very unpleasant to picture. Why one might ask? Certainly the mentioned strategies can create the desired resulting behavior of a bird on the hand. However the process of training through force involves strategies that rely on aversive experiences. Pushing a hand into a bird’s chest, scooping or peeling toes are uncomfortable experiences for a parrot, no matter how minimal the aversive is.

Fallout from Force
There can be serious repercussions with lasting effects from using aversives to gain cooperation. One of the most common results is a parrot that learns to bite in response to the presence of a hand. The important word in that sentence is “learns”. Parrots are not hatched with an inherent aggressive response to hands. This behavior is learned through repeated exposure to unpleasant interactions involving hands. Often as a last resort, a parrot bites in an effort to deter the persistent pushy hand. Should the bite produce the desired results; the bird can learn in that one encounter that biting works! And it will be likely to use it next time a hand invades its space.

This is not to say one should ignore a bite to dissuade the aggressive behavior. A more trust building approach is to heed the parrot’s body language prior to biting. Typically a parrot will present other body language that indicates discomfort well before a bite is landed. By carefully observing body language and making adjustments so that the bird appears as comfortable as possible, a sensitive avian caregiver is more likely to gain cooperation without aggressive behavior.

The same can be said for fear responses. Many likely have met a parrot who will step onto an arm, or shoulder, but will do everything in its power to avoid a hand. Again it would be an odd adaptation for a parrot to come into this world with an innate fear of hands. More realistic is the explanation that the bird’s experience with hands taught it to display fear responses.

Fallout that has occurred from forcing parrots to step up

  • How many birds now bite due to forced step up behavior?
  • How many birds are given up due to biting problems?
  • How many birds are afraid of hands and flee to the back of their cages?
  • How many birds are relegated to cages with little attention or enrichment because they learned to bite or are afraid?
  • How many birds suffer fates worse than this because they responded to force with understandable aggressive behavior and/or fear responses?

Positive Reinforcement Offers Hopes
Unfortunately it can be challenging to retrain a parrot to step up onto a hand for positive reinforcement after it has learned aggressive behavior (and/or fear responses) towards hands. But the good news is it can be done. This is particularly important to note as so many birds are often given up, left with little or no attention, or suffer fates worse than that due to being labeled a biter or no fun, through no fault of their own. It is always a sad moment for me to encounter a parrot that has learned aggressive behavior. It is sad mainly because it never had to be if the people in its life had been given the opportunity to learn about positive reinforcement.

Having worked in free flighted educational bird programs for years it was quite a shock when I first discovered the thousands of parrots that had fear responses or showed aggressive behavior towards hands in the companion parrot community. This observation lead me to conclude that the difference is information. The community training flighted parrots for shows has been raised on a positive reinforcement approach to training. Flighted parrots can easily choose to leave should a trainer resort to negative reinforcement to force a bird to step up onto the hand. Therefore negative reinforcement and its drawbacks are usually not a part of the training strategy.

The companion parrot community, on the other hand, has traditionally been fed advice that heavily promotes the use of negative reinforcement. This in turn has lead to a plethora of troubled birds. This means an important opportunity lays waiting for companion parrot caregivers. With positive reinforcement training finally making its way to many avian caregivers, parrots and their owners now have hope. No longer do parrots have to obey, instead they can learn stepping up results in desired consequences. They can learn to look forward to stepping up!

Positive Reinforcement Vs Negative Reinforcement
Change can be difficult. And those accustomed to using negative reinforcement to create behavior often present solid evidence as to why there is no need to consider other strategies. These arguments include the statement that negative reinforcement works! This is true. Negative reinforcement does work. However effectiveness is not always the measure one needs to consider as a conscientious caregiver. The reason is that the process of learning through negative reinforcement is not a pleasant one. Negative reinforcement is also sometimes called escape or harassment training. The animal complies to avoid the aversive experience. Not exactly a trust building process. In addition negative reinforcement training strategies create a bare minimum required response. Animals only do what is necessary to avoid the aversive experience.

There is also the misconception that negative reinforcement will create faster more reliable responses. While results can be immediate, it should be noted that quick, efficient, reliable, repeatable responses can also be attained with positive reinforcement.

Some argue that in an emergency the bird must step up quickly. In a true emergency, such as the house is on fire, it is understood that one may do whatever is required to ensure his or her parrot is safe. However sometimes the lines get fuzzy on what constitutes an emergency. Being late for work is not an emergency enough for this trainer to abandon her positive reinforcement training strategies. In the long run I will get more reliable performance of the behavior if I take the time to commit to using positive reinforcement even when it is slightly inconvenient to me. In my experience there is no real justification for the use of negative reinforcement for the behavior of step up in most cases.

Tips on Training Step Up with Positive Reinforcement
A key component of training with positive reinforcement is giving the bird choice. Rather than forcing oneself on the parrot, the goal is to teach the parrot choosing to come to the caregiver results in desired consequences. These consequences can be food treats, head scratches, toys, attention, etc. Identify what the bird likes and use this to reinforce approximations towards the desired goal behavior of stepping up onto the hand.

An easy way to teach a parrot to move in a desired direction is to train the bird to orient its beak towards a target. The target can be any chosen object. The target can then be gradually positioned closer and closer to the hand identified for the step up behavior. The identified hand should remain stationary and in a position that facilitates an easy step onto the hand for the bird. The goal is not to move the hand towards the bird, but for the bird to voluntarily move to the hand by following the target.

A bird that has had an unpleasant history with hands may show signs of apprehension or aggressive behavior as it ventures closer to the hand. Reinforce generously the frightened bird that dares to move in closer. If the parrot shows aggressive behavior, gently remove the hand as well as any positive reinforcers being made available to the bird for just a few seconds. This not only demonstrates to the bird that its body language was understood and acknowledged, but it also removes the opportunity to gain positive reinforcers. When this strategy is paired with reinforcement of the desired behavior, the bird can quickly learn to increase calm behavior and decrease aggressive behavior without the use of training strategies that rely on aversives.

Eventually the parrot can learn to voluntarily step up onto the hand to earn positive reinforcers. While the bird is learning to step up, the targeting behavior can be used to help direct the parrot where to go if needed for basic husbandry duties. This helps avoid caregivers resorting back to negative reinforcement training strategies to move birds during the re-training process.

Conclusion
A positive reinforcement approach embraces giving animals choices to participate. Caregivers can try to make it easy for parrots to choose to present the desired behavior, such as step up, followed by ample rewards. The result is a companion parrot that eagerly anticipates interacting with its caregivers. One of the joys of sharing ones life with a companion parrot is the relationship that can be forged between the caregiver and the bird. Positive reinforcement fosters trust and that incredibly rewarding relationship. If there is one thing you change in your handling strategy, make it this. Move over step up command….. here comes the step up request.

PEOPLEPets.com March Adopt Me!

PP-RuthieAdopt-a-Pet.com’s partnership PEOPLEPets.com is raising awareness of animals adoption! Each month, PEOPLEPets.com highlights a pet from AdoptaPet.com who is looking for a home. This month, it’s Ruthie, loving pit bull pup!  Two-year-old Ruthie was found as a stray roaming the streets by staffers at Austin Dog Rescue. She had nerve damage in her back — possibly from a car accident — but surprisingly, was otherwise happy. “She can still walk, run and play,” Joyce Martin, executive director of Austin Dog Rescue, tells PEOPLEPets.com. “She adores her daily walks, is perfect on leash and extremely well behaved.”

Because of her nerve damage, Ruthie does have some problems controlling her bladder and requires doggie diapers. But she “promises it’s not that big of a deal and will love you even more for it,” Martin says. The 45-lb. pooch has “nice greeting manners,” loves dogs, kids and cats, and is hoping to have four-legged friends in her new home. “She is a very gentle, low energy girl,” Martin says. Ruthie is vaccinated, spayed and microchipped.

Austin Dog Rescue began in Texas in 2007. The all-volunteer operation relies on foster families to care for homeless dogs rescued from smaller shelters throughout the central Texas area. The organization depends heavily on donations to continue its rescue operations, so visit its website to learn how you can help.

Read more about Ruthie and how to adopt her here.

Site We Love: Petsitting.com

Petsitting LogoAnimal lovers know that that there are many duties to tend to when it comes to caring for our pets. Yet thanks to the constant companionship and unconditional love that pets provide us, it’s no wonder that we pet owners are happy to do what it takes to care for our faithful friends. Petsitting.com can really help make that job easier.

One of the main purposes of Petsitting.com is to help pet owners find reliable local pet service providers. They work exclusively with insured and bonded companies so that you can rest easy knowing your pet service provider is covered in all areas. The process is pretty simple: you just complete a short form on Petsitting.com, and they contact you 24-48 hours later with information for a reputable, professional pet care provider in your area. The site covers the United States and Canada and did we mention it’s free?!

Petsitting.com matches pet owners with an all types of pet service providers: pet sitting, dog walking, pet boarding, doggie daycare, pet grooming, pet waste removal and dog training. You’re never required to engage in any of the pet service providers, but you’ll know where to turn when you are ready. Best of all Petsitting.com is a dedicated supporter of pet adoption. They understand that animals are loving beings who deserve to be protected and cared for, and that pet adoption saves lives. Pet adoption not only changes the life of an animal, it will also change your life in indescribable ways too! And now you know about Petsitting.com – they can help you find the pet-related services you need so that you can provide the best care for your rescued furry family member.

MyPetHealthGuide.com – February's Featured Pet for Adoption

my-pet-health-benny Benny is a special guy who deserves a great home in the northern New Jersey or New York City area. This pup was found on the streets and kept by the person who took him in. But he’s been living outside his whole life and has never known the comfort of a soft dog bed or snuggling close to a loving owner. My Pet Health Guide & Adopt-a-Pet.com are hoping Benny can find a loving home soon. He appreciates the company of other pets, chewing on rawhide bones, and learning what life on the “inside” is like. He’s a very playful pooch for his age and will be a great companion. He’s been great around other foster dogs, but prefers to sit alone chewing on a bone when they’re all outside together. Benny’s shy when he first meets you and takes some time to warm up. But once he does, you’ll fall in love.

You can make a real difference in this dog’s life, so please consider Benny if you’re looking for a new family member. Benny is neutered, up-to-date with all shots, and has been micro-chipped. If you’re interested in Benny, you can read more about him in his Adopt-a-Pet.com listing here: http://www.adoptapet.com/pet4183056.html and for information on how to adopt him, please send an e-mail to the All Star Pet Rescue in Linden, New Jersey at AllStarPets@comcast.net.

The Zoom Room Wants to Help Homeless Dogs

So you’ve adopted a dog but aren’t sure how to begin the relationship or how to train him. The Zoom Room is a cool new place to check out! This positive-based indoor dog training facility is great for building confidence in your dog as you teach him to master skills. They’ve got puppy training, obedience classes, agility training, tricks classes, shy dog class, scent work and more – all designed to help you learn about your dog and improve canine behavior. These classes are a great way to enhance communication between you and your pup and strengthen the bond. Oh, and did I mention The Zoom Room also rents out the facility for parties and doggie discos?! Now you and your pooch can groove to some 70’s music together on a Friday night!

Best of all, The Zoom Room supports pet adoption. They donate treats, toys and food to local animal shelters and always encourage adoption in their centers. They also donate classes to rescue dogs in an effort to help more dogs get ready to for adoption into happy homes, making the transition from alone to adopted even easier. Enrolling in a weekly class is a good way to train and rehabilitate shelter dogs who might need it, and to increase adoption retention in the home.

If you’ve got a local Zoom Room in your area, they’re open for hosting dog adoption events, microchip clinics, and fundraising events. They’re also pretty eco-friendly, selling green dog products and using recycled materials in their building design, products and practices. We’re so glad The Zoom Room is working with Adopt-a-Pet.com to promote pet adoption, help more dogs lead happier lives and to reduce the number of homeless pets!

Adopt-a-Pet.com Launches Dog Breed Pages

One of the largest problems facing dogs or puppies in shelters is that most people search for a new dog / puppy based on breed. This is completely logical for someone because they will want a dog that will mesh well with their lifestyle, however the reason this is a problem for shelter dogs and puppies is that there is a misconception that most dogs / puppies in shelters are not purebred, or will not resemble a certain breed enough to depict their temperament. Further complicating issues for shelter dogs / puppies is often how people will search for a new dog, by breed. Searching by breed often leads one to find a breeder, and breeders are continually ignoring the the millions of dogs who end up in shelters, and are killed in shelters to support their profits.

Search Shelter Dogs & Puppies by Breed
at Adopt-a-pet.com

Choosing to search for a dog or puppy by breed is a sensible way to find the right dog for your lifestyle, however be aware all dogs no matter what the breed are as unique as people and at least 1/4 of all dogs / puppies in shelters are purebred. In an effort to help curb the number of dogs killed in shelters each year Adopt-a-Pet.com has launched over 250 pages profiling dog breeds. Each page contains important FAQ for adoption, in addition to our search saver feature which will notify visitors via e-mail when a dog / puppy of a particular breed becomes available. Here is a list to our dog breed pages and where you can search puppies available in shelters by breed.

Shelter Dogs Usually Require a Fee of About $100 for Adoption

Dog Park Finder App Upgrades

dog-park-finder-app-logoThe Dog Park Finder Plus App (http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dog-park-finder-plus/id372419544?mt=8), sponsored in part by Adopt-A-Pet.com, has just gotten even better. A new iPad interface has been included, so all you iPad owners out there can view park and map information at the same time, with a much larger interface! Also, new parks and beaches have been added across the country bringing the total number of dog parks to over 5,000.dog-park-finder

DogParkUSA.com is used to power the Dog Park Finder Plus App, and has also been updated for the start of 2011. Check out DogGoes.com, the new website which lists dog friendly restaurant and hotels.

The people at DogGoes.com are committed to promoting happy and healthly canine friends by advocating responsibly maintained public dog play areas. They are also committed to the idea that every dog should be lucky enough to enjoy a day at the park so they are generously donating 15% of their proceeds to Adopt-a-Pet.com to help us in our mission to find a happy home for every pet! Not only is the Dog Park Finder Plus app useful to have, it also helps support our free service and promotes pet adoption! What a great way to help get many more dogs get into loving homes and into those fun dog parks.

Feline Inpatient Anti-Stress Protocol

why-my-cat-doesn't-like-the-vetThis insightful article gives a vet’s point of view on how to reduce stress for cats that are being kept in a vet hospital boarding situation. However, the advice and experience Dr. Tripp shares can be helpful for many similar situations, such as cats in a shelter, rescue kennel, foster home with regular new cats coming through – and even to new cat adopters!

This post is brought to Adopt-a-Pet.com by Dr. Rolan Tripp. Dr. Tripp received his doctorate from UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine and also holds a bachelor’s degree in music and a minor in philosophy. A regular guest on the Animal Planet Network, Dr. Tripp appears on both “Petsburgh, USA” and “Good Dog U.”

Dr. Tripp writes… As a species, the genetic makeup of cats make them more susceptible to hospitalized stress than dogs. The first factor is that unlike most animals, cats are equally a predator and a prey species. To a bird or mouse in the wild, the cat is a predator. However, to a coyote the same cat is a meal. One can imagine that a cat being veterinary restrained then injected might trigger the instinctive association of being pinned by a predator prior to a fatal skin puncture. More enlightened practitioners now use “Gentling Techniques” to educate, then “Distraction” to modify the cat’s potentially negative association with veterinary care.

The second factor is that whereas dogs bond more to a social group, cats bond more to a home location. This is because canids typically roam over large areas to hunt, while a small felid is more likely to bond to and defend a specific hunting territory. A third factor is that the domestic cat’s critical socialization period is so early (3-7 weeks) that cats are typically less socialized than dogs to many humans and environments. Finally, cats are more fastidious than dogs about their elimination. In most hospitalized situations, cats are not provided sufficient litter to bury their waste, and no one knows how much adds this to their stress.

Clinical Feline Stress

table

Feline Inpatient Anti-Stress Protocol

  • Provide a place to hide. Place a towel over the front of the kennel or put a brown paper grocery bag inside the kennel to give stressed cats a place to hide.
  • Place a cardboard box in the cage. A cut box allows the cat to hide inside or jump on top since a cat’s instinct when stressed is to climb. Even this slight elevation also helps the cat rest away from any litter odor or mess.
  • Reduce exposure to urine and feces. Consider using litter on disposable cardboard trays that don’t have any residual urine scent of other cats. Use one per elimination to keep the cage clean.
  • Clean the food and water bowls. Wash daily instead of just adding to the existing bowls.
  • Feed free choice. Unless contraindicated, provide dry food ad lib, and canned food twice daily. Offering a small amount of dry food makes it easier to record any consumption.
  • Give a comfy bed. Provide a resting area with sides in addition to a litter box. If the cat rejects the cat bed and curls up in the litter box, provide a second clean litter box.
  • “Feliway” olfaction ambiance (OTC feline facial pheromone). Mist a towel, wait 5 min for the alcohol solvent to evaporate, then place the towel as bedding inside the cage. Alternatively spray the top corner of an empty cage, and add the cat after the spray is dry. Repeat the spray daily as needed.
  • Spend some extra time. Give a moment’s attention to frightened non-aggressive cats, stroking and talking in a soothing voice. This is also helpful to induce eating in a stress anorexic cat. Avoid murmuring any “S” type words that might sound like hissing.
  • Use the body language of love. Give the cat your own, “Lovey-eye” (eyes half closed, with slow blink) and look for reciprocation.
  • Consider relocation. Move stressed cats away from dogs into a cat-only area. Alternatively, some cats might be more stressed by other cats, and do better mixed into the dog kennel area.
  • Add medications. If the cat is very stressed and nonresponsive to other techniques, the DVM can administer anti-anxiety medication such as reversible sedation, benzodiazepine, and/or the sedative, Acepromazine.
  • A “Pet Centered Practice” focuses on reducing both physical and emotional stress in hospitalized cats. This improves the client’s satisfaction, the staff’s competence, and the patient’s mental and physical health.

About the Author

Dr. Tripp received his doctorate from UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine and also holds a bachelor’s degree in music and a minor in philosophy. A regular guest on the Animal Planet Network, Dr. Tripp appears on both “Petsburgh, USA” and “Good Dog U.” He is a Veterinary Behavior Consultant for Antech Laboratory’s “Dr. Consult Line” and an Affiliate Professor of Applied Animal Behavior at both Colorado State University College of Veterinary Medicine and University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Tripp is the founder of the national behavior consulting practice, www.AnimalBehavior.Net. He is now the Chief Veterinary Pet Behaviorist of The Hannah Society (www.hannahsociety.com) which helps match people and pets, then keeps them together. Contact info: Rolan.Tripp@HannahSociety.com.