Category: Behavior

Duet Postscriptum / Stocksy
When a new dog moves into your home, it is not at all uncommon for them to feel the need to “raise the yellow flag” and claim their new territory as their own by marking it with some urine. Since many newly adopted dogs are already housebroken, this may just be a one-time incident — but it could be a recurring problem.

One of the causes of territorial marking is hormones, and the other is social communication. Your dog might be trying to stake their claim on a territory, or they could be letting you know how they feel about that new couch (household changes are a huge trigger for urine marking).

Knowing how to stop a dog from marking inside can be tricky. Luckily, there are a few simple “tricks” you can try to put a stop to that leg lifting or squatting. Read on for five tips about how to stop a dog from marking inside your home.

1. Assess the marking behavior

The first step to help stop your dog from marking in the house is to determine why they are doing it. Start a log and note the times and locations of your dog’s marking habits. Is your dog marking in one spot or multiple spots? Do they mark only when alone or in front of you? Did they suddenly begin marking in the house when they previously weren’t? Make a record so you can better assess the root cause. This also gives you a starting point when you reach out to your vet.

2. Give them enough potty breaks

Even a dog who was fully housebroken in their prior home or foster home will need time to adjust to your schedule, including going to the bathroom on a new routine and in new places. Just like in housebreaking, make sure to give your dog as many potty breaks as possible in the beginning, on a schedule, and praise them when they go outside.

3. Schedule a vet check-up

Bladder or urinary infections can be painful and cause a dog to urinate urgently and frequently. Make a vet appointment ASAP to rule out this cause. If your pup isn’t altered, this is another reason to consider doing so. Spay/neuter surgery will often eliminate hormonally-driven marking, but it does take time for hormone levels to subside enough to make a difference. If your dog was just altered, treat them as you would an un-housebroken dog and go back to house training 101.

4. Use an enzyme cleaner

If you don’t completely get rid of the pee smell, your pup might keep marking their territory in the same spot. Soak the area with a pet urine enzyme cleaner and let it fully dry. If your home is humid or has wall-to-wall carpeting or upholstery, you can use a hair dryer to speed up the process after one day. Do not allow your dog access to that area while it is drying. If there is a removable carpet in that area (doormats are popular pee spots), put it outside.

5. Train your dog to stop marking

The key to stopping your dog from marking is prevention. If you’re not directly supervising your pup, temporarily crate them or keep them gated off from the spots they were marking. While your dog is out of their crate, don’t let them out of your sight. Look for signs that your dog is getting ready to mark (sniffing around, lifting their leg, circling around, etc.), then follow these steps to stop scent marking:

1.     If they’re about to mark, interrupt them with a short and abrupt sound (Aarp!).
2.     Redirect them outside, and reward them if they pee.
3.     Repeat.

What if my dog is marking a single spot?

If your dog is marking in one spot repeatedly, put your dog’s crate or bed on top of that “marking spot,” or try to block the spot as much as possible. Often that’s all it takes, although some dogs will still raise the flag on their crate but not their bed. If the bed or crate stops your dog from marking, keep it in that spot for at least two weeks. If the bed/crate doesn’t work, try their food and water bowls. If that works, feed your dog there for two weeks.

Are belly bands useful?

Belly bands can be a training tool, but they do not address the root causes of why your dog is marking. They should not be a replacement for properly house training your dog. When in doubt, consult a trainer to see if a belly band can be a useful tool for your dog. The idea behind belly bands is that dogs are less likely to mark when they feel wetness against them.

• What is a belly band? Belly bands are a cloth wrap, kind of like a diaper, that goes around the waist of a male dog to discourage them from peeing in inappropriate places.
• Are belly bands humane? There is some debate over whether or not belly bands are humane; when used correctly, belly bands are not cruel. Belly bands should be a temporary measure used in conjunction with training and only while supervised.
• Can a dog wear a belly band all day? Belly bands should not be worn constantly; they should be changed every three to four hours or as soon as your dog soils them to avoid irritation. They also should not be worn when pet parents aren’t around to supervise so they don’t get caught on furniture or otherwise cause your dog harm.

What if my dog is anxious marking?

In addition to training, some have found using an ADAPTL (dog appeasing pheromones) collar, diffuser, or spray helpful in calming their anxious dog, which helps stop territorial marking. These collars are about $10 at pet stores, and most vet offices carry some version of it, too.

Success story

Here is one real-life example of how one adopter worked through territorial marking with their newly adopted dog, Max. The first week Max was with his adopters, he didn’t have any accidents, but then he started to pee in his parent’s studio, where he slept at night, was fed, and was kept while alone in the house. It also happened to be a spot where the adopter’s previous dog had accidents when she was sick. Max’s new parent never left him alone for more than two hours at a time outside of bedtime, and he was walked and played with regularly, but he continued to pee inside — even if he had been out shortly before.

Because Max was marking in one spot repeatedly, they followed the above advice: They cleaned the floor with an enzymatic cleaner and put his bed on top of the spot, and Max stopped marking the area.

What if these techniques don’t help?

Is there another underlying behavioral issue? Issues like marking can be exacerbated by a lack of training and discipline; pets need guidance to help them navigate the human world. Lack of training is the number one reason dogs end up in shelters. Training a dog — especially a puppy — can be overwhelming and takes some time, but many behavior issues have relatively simple solutions, and the advice of a good book, trainer, behaviorist, or veterinarian could help. You could also try a local trainer who uses positive, humane training methods. You can choose from a variety of training methods ranging from group classes to private, in-home lessons to board-and-train.

Figuring out how to stop a dog from marking inside may take some time and patience, but it will be well worth it when you start to see results.

What if you’ve exhausted all these resources and still could not get to the root of the problem? Our experts at Rehome by Adopt-a-Pet.com understand how difficult it can be to figure out the best course of action. While we always want to find ways for you to work through behavior and training issues and keep your pet, if you are struggling and have started thinking about rehoming your pet, Rehome — a peer-to-peer adoption service that allows pet owners to post their pets on Adopt-a-Pet.com to be seen by millions of potential adopters — could be a good resource for you.

FAQ (People Also Ask):

How do I stop my dog from marking his territory in the house?

First, assess the marking behavior, then make sure they get enough potty breaks, take them to their vet, or pursue other tips in this article.

Why does my dog mark his territory in the house?

Dogs mark to advertise their presence and claim territory and resources.

How do I stop my male dog from peeing on everything inside?

First, assess the marking behavior. Then pursue the advice in this article based on their behavior and potentially consult a veterinarian.

Should I punish my dog for marking in the house?

No, positive reinforcement is a more effective training method than punishment.

Do belly bands stop dogs from marking?

Belly bands prevent your dog from marking on your possessions or surfaces but do not address the root causes of marking.

Are belly bands for dogs cruel?

Belly bands are not cruel if used correctly. They should remain on dogs for no longer than three to four hours and should be replaced immediately after being soiled.

References:

A Commonsense Approach to the House-Soiling Dog

Patterns of Scent Marking with Urine and Faeces Amongst Carnivore Communities

Dog Language – An Encyclopedia Of Canine Behavior

Samson Katt / Pexels
Separation anxiety in dogs takes many forms and has many different levels of intensity, but one of the most obvious signs is a dog crying, howling, barking, or otherwise vocalizing when left alone. Your canine crooner may not be hurting themself or anyone (or anything!) with this behavior, but unless you live in a soundproof studio or way out in the country, dogs howling can certainly cause problems with your neighbors. Also, it is a very audible communication from your dog to you, or whoever might be within earshot, that they’re unhappy.

Your dog may have felt abandoned before, and if they’re not well-balanced through training, routine, and exercise, losing their protector can feel unbearable. The good news is there are things you can try to reduce and eliminate separation anxiety when left alone.

What causes separation anxiety in dogs?

Separation anxiety occurs when a dog experiences fear or panic when left alone, either after a specific person leaves or if they’re totally alone. “Dogs are social creatures, they want to be with their people, and they do not want to be alone,” says dog trainer Julie Chang, PhD, CTC of The Life of Kai. “Sometimes, separation anxiety can be managed using different strategies. They can be taught to feel okay when being alone.”

Some newly adopted dogs may vocalize when they are first left alone as they are still getting used to their new home. Even dogs you’ve had for a while can be upset by changes in their routine, such as your work hours changing, a new roommate, etc., which can lead to separation anxiety.

Separation anxiety in dogs vs. just boredom — what’s the difference?

Dogs experiencing separation anxiety tend to exhibit more severe behaviors than dogs who are just bored or frustrated. Bored dogs may alternate between barking, sleeping, chewing, or becoming mischievous when their parent is away, but dogs experiencing separation anxiety will really freak out because they are overwhelmed by fear. “Frustrated or bored dogs are typically less persistent when expressing the behaviors whereas a fearful and anxious dog is not as logical; they can vocalize for hours,” says Chang.

Can puppies have separation anxiety?

Separation anxiety is not just an adult thing. Puppies can get separation anxiety, too. “Bad early life experiences can create fear even in puppies. Many assume that puppies are too young to have bad experiences,” says Chang. “Remember that fear can derive from maternal experiences while [in the womb] or early bad experiences that happen with a litter if mom was unable to care for them, or they were hungry because mom was not healthy. We often see this with pregnant, reduced stray mamas.”

But not all puppies who chew on table legs or howl when you leave are experiencing separation anxiety. While it is true that puppies can develop separation anxiety, younger dogs are more likely to feel frustrated than anxious.

What are the symptoms of separation anxiety in dogs?

Common symptoms of anxiety in dogs include drooling, hiding, shaking, panting, excess energy, aggression, and destruction. Humans can also notice signs before they leave, including pacing, panting, pulling their ears back, following you around, hiding, or refusing food.

The most obvious sign — and one that can potentially be the most problematic for everyone involved — is crying or excessive barking when you leave. Dogs cry or whine for a number of reasons, but in this case, they’re generally expressing their uncertainty and anxiety.

How to train dogs with separation anxiety

You can help alleviate your dog’s separation anxiety with training, specifically through desensitization. When desensitizing a dog, the idea is to help your dog understand that nothing bad happens when they’re alone. When desensitizing your dog through training, go at your dog’s pace by doing short incremental training sessions. “It’s recommended that you work on home-alone training four to five times a week. The training starts with the duration the dog can be alone without stress,” says Chang. For some dogs, that duration is five seconds. For others, it might only be three — it is individual to the dog.

The length of the training program required to help them overcome their separation anxiety varies depending on the individual dog too. “The recommended training time is usually eight weeks. The goal is for the dog to be alone at least for 15 minutes, but for some dogs, eight weeks is not enough.”

Chang recommends investing in an indoor video camera before getting started. It will allow you to monitor your dog to ensure you return before they exhibit any non-audible feelings of anxiety, such as shadowing and pacing. Here’s a rough outline of how to get started:

1. Before training, find the starting point.

You’ll need to determine when your dog begins to freak out about the idea of you leaving. Do they panic when you grab your keys? When you crack the door? Can you go out the door for five seconds or only two? You get the idea. Other potential triggers include taking a shower, making coffee, and putting on shoes. Keep track of this information in a journal to record your dog’s progress.

2. Begin desensitizing your pup.

Work with your dog several times a week to help build their tolerance while also keeping them calm and comfortable. If your dog can remain calm while you walk up to your door, as long as you don’t touch it, then practice that. “If keys are a departure cue, we advise the pet parents to go ahead and put keys in their pocket hours before they know they have to leave. It’s just one less thing to desensitize,” says Chang. “Touching the doorknob, however, cannot be minimized. So we have them work on the doorknob and just pocket the keys.”

Work at your dog’s pace making only incremental adjustments. Eventually, you’ll work on touching but not turning the doorknob, and so forth. Keep it positive. Wait one to two minutes between each training session.

3. Build their alone-time tolerance.

As your dog gets better at handling your typical routine, mix it up. Try doing things in a different order or for different durations, but again, keep it positive. Here’s an example:

1. Only go down the hallway to your front door or down the driveway, then come back.
2. Then go down the hallway or block, wait five minutes, and come back.
3. Then, actually leave.

Other Ways to Help Dogs With Separation Anxiety

Keep Greetings Calm

When you are getting ready to leave, gather up your things and leave as if you are coming right back. Skip hugs, kisses, or dramatic farewells. Don’t say “Goodbye, sweetie pie!” This just gives your dog a huge alert that you’re leaving.

Follow the same low-key routine when you return. This is the hardest for humans, but ignore any attention-seeking behavior, such as jumping or going crazy, and only reward your dog with calm love and affection when they are calm for at least five minutes after you’ve come home. You can take them outside immediately if they have to go potty but do so calmly without fanfare, as you’d do if you’d been home already.

Build a Support Network

For some dogs, being around others can help reduce their anxiousness. Doggie daycare can be a daily or occasional way for dogs who enjoy playing with other dogs to get lots of exercise and be happier and less anxious on days when their humans can’t be home with them.

“If pet parents have limited time, they can get the dog to daycare or build a small circle of friends and family to help watch the dog when they cannot,” says Chang. Daily dog walkers or sitters can also add just enough extra exercise and attention into your dog’s routine to alleviate crying when left alone.

Seek Professional Help

When it comes to addressing separation anxiety, positive reinforcement training is crucial. A certified trainer with appropriate credentials can teach you the tools to help your dog cope with separation anxiety. But because of the nature of separation anxiety, professional training can take a long time and be expensive. Expect to pay between $1500 and $2000 for a typical eight-week session. Some trainers, such as Julie Naismith and Malena DeMartini, offer an a la carte approach to separation anxiety training by providing pet parents the ability to connect with a separation anxiety specialist at an easier-to-swallow price.

Try Medications For Anxiety

If all else fails, you can visit your vet to discuss your dog’s behavior. There are a few medications for dogs with separation anxiety, such as Alprazolam or Clomicalm, that your vet can prescribe that may help either relieve anxiety or sedate your dog. For many dogs, medication and training go hand in hand.

“Sometimes medications have to be added to the regimen and may take at least two months to have an effect. During those months, [separation anxiety] training may need to be modified,” says Chang.

You can also try natural anxiety remedies, including experimenting with calming products like calming collars, shirts, and diffusers, but the efficacy of many of these products is anecdotal. Probiotic supplements, available through veterinarians, can also help dogs maintain positive cardiac activity during stressful events, promoting a positive emotional state. It may take up to six weeks to see results, so give yourself plenty of lead time.

What if none of this works?

What if you sought out a professional and it did not help, or you are unable to make the investment in helping your pup with their separation anxiety? If you’ve realized your dog’s anxiety is not improving or they are under a great deal of stress, rehoming your dog to a family that can better address these needs may be a very kind and responsible choice.

Rehome is a peer-to-peer adoption service that allows pet parents to post their pets on adoptapet.com to be seen by millions of potential adopters. If you’re in the difficult position of considering whether to rehome your dog, it’s important to take an honest look at the situation and do your homework. Rehome can help make the process easy and as safe as possible. When you’ve done all you can, it’s important to remember that pets are individuals, and sometimes your home might not be the right fit.

FAQs (People Also Ask)

How long can dogs be left alone?

Adult dogs can generally be left for four to six hours a day, while puppies between three and six months should not be left alone for longer than their age in months.

How can I help my dog stop crying when I leave?

If your dog is bored, playing the radio or TV, giving them food puzzles, and crate training may help. For dogs with separation anxiety, desensitization training can help reduce their fear and improve their behavior.

How long does it take for a dog to overcome separation anxiety?

Every dog is different, and with training and other methods of intervention, some dogs overcome their separation anxiety in weeks while others take months or even years.

What are some home remedies for separation anxiety in dogs?

The best home remedy for separation anxiety in dogs is training. Training your dog to be less fearful when alone can help reduce crying and problematic behaviors.

What is the fastest way to cure separation anxiety in dogs?

There is no fast way to cure separation anxiety in dogs. Every dog is different, and helping them overcome their fear takes time. Do not rush training, work at your dog’s individual pace.

Do dogs eventually get over separation anxiety?

With training and other methods of intervention, many dogs overcome separation anxiety, but they’ll need the help and guidance of someone they trust.

References:

Risk factors and behaviors associated with separation anxiety in dogs

Relationship between attachment to owners and separation anxiety in pet dogs (Canis lupus familiaris)

Evaluation of treatments for separation anxiety in dogs

Treatment of separation anxiety in dogs with clomipramine: results from a prospective, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel-group, multicenter clinical trial

Canine separation anxiety: strategies for treatment and management

Separation Anxiety and Dog Boredom

Cat bites are not fun! This article is to help you with knowledge and tips for avoiding future cat bites from your pet cat. If you are reading this because you just got bitten by a cat, please know this is not an article about the medical care you may need. Instead, please go immediately to our “Cat bites are serious!” article right away! If you have a feisty young kitten (under 6 to 7 months old) who is play biting you, so not inflicting hard skin-puncturing bites, we suggest you first read our Is your kitten biting you or playing too rough? article. However, if you are here because your tame, usually friendly cat has suddenly tried to bite you, possibly more than once, and would like some tips to avoid being bitten, you’re in the right place! Read on…

Tame adult pet cats bite people for many reasons. The three most common reasons for indoor cats are overstimulation, fear, and anger/stress. Less common reasons are maternal, status, redirected, disease, or pain. It can be just one of those reasons, but sometimes is a combination of two or more. Understanding the causes can help you remove or counteract them, and reduce the chances of being bitten. However, figuring out what a cat is feeling is no easy task! This article isn’t a comprehensive guide to why cats bite, but can give you some tools to increase your understanding and reduce a cat’s biting. We highly recommend working with a professional cat behaviorist in addition to reading this article.

Below are examples of the three most common reasons cats bite, followed by what to do tips for each reason. Below that, we suggest one better way you can react the moment your cat tries to bite you, and finally one way to positively reward good behavior to further reduce biting behavior.

1. Overstimulation. Often a cat who enjoys being pet, but then suddenly bites. 
2. Fear. Examples include a cat that bites when picked up, when restrained (like for having his nails trimmed), or when woken suddenly.
3. Anger/stress. Most commonly from territory changes or challenges, changes in their routine, or illness, but can be from other causes too.

If your cat bites you because he is overstimulated, you will need to try to learn what causes him to be overstimulated, and at what point the overstimulation causes a bite, then carefully avoid approaching his limits. So if your cat bites you after you’ve pet him five times, you may only be able to pet your cat one or two strokes. If he gets wound up after 5 minutes of playing with a toy on a string, you may be only able to play for 1 minute. This seems simple, but when your cat is acting affectionate or having fun, stopping can be really hard! Some cats will tolerate neck scratches without biting, but will bite if their back is pet.

Each cat is an individual, so you’ll need to carefully determine his individual limits. Closely observe your cat for any pre-bite warning signs – such as tail swishing, ears going back flat, body stiffness, growling/hissing, pupils dilating – and stop whatever activity you or he are doing immediately. You’ll also have to make sure all other humans that come in contact with your cat obey the limits you determine. Often “don’t pet the cat” is easier for other people to understand and abide than “only pet him three times” or “only scratch his neck.” Give visitors a feather toy on a string to let them play with your cat safely that way instead.

If your cat bites you due to fear, you will need to do you best to avoid fearful situations for your cat. Declawed cats often bite out of fear, having had their first line of defense removed (yet another reason never to declaw a cat). Fear biters can be challenging when it comes to nail trimming, so you may need the help of a professional groomer or vet tech to learn how to humanely, safely, and in the least-stressful way possible restrain your cat and trim their nails. If your cat likes treats or canned food, rewarding him after the fearful experience can sometimes make him forget more quickly the fearful experience he had to endure for his own health.

If your cat bites due to anger/stress, you probably have some detective work to do to figure out all the causes, then see how much you can reduce or remove them. Often you can’t do much directly, like if a new barky dog moves in next door.  Creative thinking helps! Sometimes confining the cat to a small room such as a quite bedroom or bathroom for some or even all of the day for a few weeks can let them get used to the new situation more slowly, on their terms, which could be less stressful. But some cats are more stressed out being locked in a room. Each situation is so unique, if your cat is biting you because of anger/stress, we highly recommend consulting with a professional certified cat behaviorist.

Why a behaviorist and not your vet? It is rare for a regular vet to have a degree in feline behavioral medicine. According to the American Association of Feline Practitioners, “most veterinarians never received education in veterinary school about feline behavior, and do not have the time and resources to study all the latest research and develop behavior protocols.” However, don’t hesitate to ask your regular vet for a recommendation of a certified cat behaviorist. A good behaviorist will often work closely with their clients’ veterinarians, especially if anti-anxiety medication is indicated, and to rule out any possible underlying medical causes. 

HOW TO REACT IF YOUR CAT TRIES TO BITE YOU

The best way we’ve found to react to a cat who’s tried to bite you, no matter what the cause, is to calmly back away from the cat. (Sometimes upset cats will go after your ankles if you move quickly, or turn your back to walk away.) Leave the room, or if you live in a studio or loft leave your home, shut the door behind you, and give the cat a time-out alone for 5 minutes. If you are upset, take the time to calm down and forgive your cat, so you can re-enter as if nothing untoward has happened.

HOW TO REWARD GOOD BEHAVIOR

Does your cat like treats? Canned food? Playing with a toy? If your cat is an overstimulated biter, and let you pet him for his allotted time with no bites, you can reward him with his favorite treat, food, or game. Rewards are building blocks for long-term, positive behavior.

*IMPORTANT: Never respond to a cat biting you with a physical reprimand or punishment. PUNISHMENT WILL MAKE YOUR SITUATION WORSE. Cats respond to negativity with negativity. If your cat bites and you “tap” his nose, forcefully push him away, yell, squirt him with a water bottle, or respond with any other negative punishment, you almost guarantee the cat will try to bite you again, and likely try harder – or become scared and avoid you and a broken trust bond with a cat is very hard to repair.

We hope this article helps you with your biting cat!

One of the most frustrating behaviors for a cat owner is litterbox issues. If only cats could talk to tell us why they weren’t using their litterbox! There are so many reasons cats completely stop or won’t use their litterbox all the time. It can take some detective work to figure out the reason or reasons, and the cure or cures. This blog article will give you a step-by-step process to figure out why and fix the problem. Many cat owners I know and I have personally used these steps to solve litterbox problems with many cats, from young kittens to seniors. Litterbox issues are one of the most common reasons cats are surrendered to shelters, but it doesn’t have to be that way. We describe nine steps below in detail – don’t be overwhelmed! Often it only takes finding the right step to get your cat going back in the litterbox again.

To make these steps easier to understand, I’ll call your litterbox-avoiding cat Kitty.

Cats can be sensitive and effected by your mood. They might not show it in a way you understand, but if you are stressed or unhappy when your are cleaning their litterbox or otherwise, Kitty will pick up on that and that may be why he is avoiding the litterbox. Can you change your mood? Sometimes buying a pretty new litterbox and scented litter makes you feel better, and will help Kitty start using it again. Also, as your Kitty gets back on track, don’t forget to lavishly praise Kitty each time he gets it right, and reward him with his favorite treat if you ever see him using his box.

These steps assume you know litter box math: each cat should have their own litterbox plus one extra, so 1 cat = 2 boxes, 2 cats =3 boxes, 3 cats = 4 boxes.

Step 1. Clean up

Cat urine is one of the most difficult smells on the earth to remove. To add to the challenge, cats have an extraordinary sense of smell, and may continue to go if they can smell their prior mess. But it can be done! Remove, sterilize, and store (or throw out) any items Kitty urinated or defecated on outside the box. If Kitty went on more permanent items like your front door or wall-to-wall carpet, thoroughly clean the entire area, and soak with an enzyme pet cleaner for 24 hours. If you can’t close Kitty out of that room, keep him away from it the entire time you are trying the steps below by covering it with a large cat-proof item, like a plastic tarp.

Step 2. “Brand New”

The easiest and fastest thing you can try is adding another brand new litterbox, with new litter, in a new location. Put a brand new litterbox, as big a one as possible and NOT a covered one, filled with fresh all-new litter, as close as you can to where Kitty was eliminating inappropriately the most. This might be right next to your shower if they were using the bath mat, in your closet, on the couch, under a window or in a doorway.

Monitor Kitty for one full day.

Did that stop Kitty from going outside the box? Great! Keep it there for one full week or as long as it would usually take for your Kitty to go outside his box. If you can keep the litterbox in the new location with that kind of litter, your outside-the-box problem may be solved.

What if the new location is not where you want a litterbox?  Gradually – just one foot a day –  move it to where you want it. If Kitty’s peeing or pooping outside the box resumes, move it back. If you get up to two adjacent boxes, keep the 2nd box there for one month. After one month, you can take up the 2nd box – but be aware, even some single cats need two boxes.

Step 3. Medical

If the “brand new” solution didn’t fix your problem in one day, you should take Kitty to your vet ASAP to rule out any medical causes. Often cats will stop using their box to communicate they aren’t feeling well or are in pain. Here are the steps most vets will recommend:

1. A urinalysis to check for infection.

2. A urine CULTURE for elevated bacteria.

3. Blood panel or other tests for illnesses.

4. Feline Prozac or Buspar to relieve anxiety-driven litterbox issues.

Step 3. Litterbox preferences

After your vet has ruled out immediate medical causes, and while you’re waiting on the culture to come back, you can start the process of figuring out if it is the litterbox location, type or depth of litter, cleanliness, or style of box. Kitty may have a particular preference!

One of our lovely Adopt-a-Pet.com fans asked us to blog about how to stop our dogs from barking when we’re not home.  Well, your wish is our command! First, it’s important to understand why dogs bark.  They bark to communicate, just like we speak.  Some common types of barking include alert barking to let you know of something, defensive barking to avoid or stop something the dog doesn’t like, attention barking for your attention, frustration barking when confused or stressed, and boredom barking which occurs as an outlet for the dog to amuse himself. (Check out Karen Pryor’s books for more detailed explanation of why dogs bark.)

Not all barking is a problem. Often it’s a natural way for your dog to tell you he wants to go outside or is hungry. But when dealing with your dog barking excessively, take into account that it’s often a symptom of another problem such as anxiety or boredom. The barking is a symptom and will not go away until the source is addressed so consider what is going on for your dog that is causing him to bark before devising a plan of action.

For example, if your dog is barking for attention, one of the most effective ways to handle this is to remove what he wants – your attention – when he is barking. When he stops barking, give your dog all the attention and love you can! He will soon learn that being quiet gets him what he wants and will pair barking with your ignoring him. If your dog alert barks when someone comes to the door thank him for his help and let him know you’ve got it under control. Then throw a ball or a toy he likes to get his focus off of alerting you and on to a game. You can also teach your dog to be quiet on command with the help of a trainer or dog training class. By teaching your dog to bark on cue, you can also teach him to be silent.

If your dog barks when you are gone, accept that the environment and set-up you have  is reinforcing his barking. And barking is, unfortunately, a self-reinforcing behavior which becomes a learned habit. So if you want to stop your dog from barking when you’re not home, change the set-up that is inadvertently reinforcing the barking. For instance, if your dog barks when he’s alone in the backyard, try keeping him inside in a crate instead when you’re gone. (Please note: a dog should not be kept in a crate for more than 6 hours at a time – see our How to Crate Train article.) If you think certain street sounds trigger him while you’re gone, try leaving classical music playing to calm him, or check out special soothing dog CDs for such purposes (like www.throughadogsear.com). If your dog barks at people or other dogs passing by a window, draw the blinds or keep the dog out of the front room except when you’re there to address the problem.

Keep in mind that your dog might be barking when you leave home because he is simply bored. Is your dog getting enough exercise and stimulation? If he is good with other dogs, consider adopting a second dog so they can keep each other company and play while you’re gone, or try fostering a pet with a local rescue group to see if that helps relieve the boredom and barking. Experiment with giving your dog a chew toy like a bully stick or Kong (best when filled with peanut butter or treats) to keep him occupied while he’s home alone. Give him a chew treats as a project to work on right as you’re walking out the door as this will help keep him busy and also positively associate your absence. Try only giving him these high value chew treats when he’s home alone. (Please note: if you have more than one dog, do not leave them unsupervised with high value chew treats as they may lead to fighting.) See my past article on When to Give Your Dog a Chew Toy for more on this topic!

In sum, watch and listen to your dog. What is causing him to bark when you’re home? Those are good indicators of what is causing him to bark when you’re not home. Then figure out how can you alleviate these triggers for him and set him up to succeed barklessly!

Katya Friedman is Adopt-a-Pet.com’s Director of Partnerships and Promotions and a certified dog trainer.

Cats have a natural need to scratch. It stretches their muscles, marks their territory, reduces stress, and removes dead layers of their nails. If you don’t provide your cat with desirable scratching surfaces and, if needed, train them to scratch where you want, they may choose to scratch the corner of your couch instead! Cats and kittens of all ages can be trained to scratch where you want, some more easily than others. Each cat’s environment and past experiences play a role in how quickly they can be trained. Here are some suggested steps to train your cat to scratch where you want:

1. Prepare your home

During training, remove access to or cover appealing surfaces where you don’t want your cats to scratch. Cats often like rough fabric. For example, if your cat is going after your recliner or couch, cover furniture with a smooth sheet or blanket, or apply double-sided sticky tape (spot test a small non-visible area first) or tin foil wrap. Cats don’t like slippery or sticky surfaces. If they are scratching the wall-to-wall carpet, cover where they are scratching with a plastic carpet runner or put a piece of furniture on top of the spot. Some household items are just too tempting for a cat. You wouldn’t leave a hamburger out in the middle of your living room floor and expect a dog not to eat it! You may need to donate your wicker hamper to a charity, or put it in the closet with the door closed.

2. Supply scratching posts

Buy or build two or more different types of scratching posts. Posts should be sturdy and tall enough to allow the cat to completely stretch – ideally 3 feet or taller. A bark-covered log, a post covered with sisal, or a burlap-covered box, or there are countless cardboard or sisal scratchers in pet retail stores. You can find a great selection of cat scratchers at Chewy. Soft carpeting will not typically satisfy a cat’s need to scratch. Soft, fluffy, carpeted scratching posts rarely work, and may be one of the main causes of declawing – which is painful, inhumane, and can cause other behavior issues – because cats often don’t like the posts. Every cat is different, so if your cat ignores one post, try another material and location.

3. Scratching post locations

Place one scratching post where the cat is already clawing or likely to claw, such as the side of the couch, and another close to where he or she normally sleeps. Cats like to stretch and scratch when they first wake up. Another option is the cardboard or sisal “scratching box,” which lies flat on the floor. These are inexpensive and small enough to scatter around the house, allowing your cat easy access to an “approved” scratching spot at all times. They can wear out fairly quickly if you have an avid scratcher, and need to be replaced when too worn down — otherwise, cats may revert back to using furniture.

4. Training

Next, give your cat specific instructions as to where to claw and where not to claw. Invite your cat to investigate the new scratching post and scratch it yourself to make a scratching noise. Baby kittens you can gently hold and move their paws in a scratching motion on the post. This will scent the posts and encourage exploratory clawing. Make the post a “fun” place to be. Play games with your cat on and around the post and attach hanging strings, balls and/or bouncy wire toys to it. For adult cats, you can try sprinkling catnip on the post, too. A once-a-week or so “refresher” application will keep your cat interested. Raise with praise! When kitty uses the post, reinforce her good behavior with verbal praise.

5. No punishment

When the cat claws furniture or another undesired surface, never punish cats with physical force or a loud voice. You can say “no” if it makes you feel better, and gently move or lure them to a scratching post.

As a last resort, some behaviorists say you can calmly mist room-temperature water from a spray bottle directed next to the cat, one misting spray not a stream and not multiple ones. NEVER spray the cat. The spray sound is like a cat hiss and most cats don’t like water spray. We don’t recommend this as in our experience, it makes the cat afraid of you. Also, most cats quickly figure out if you’re not standing there with the spray bottle, there’s no spray and they will scratch away! Instead, consider one or more motion-activated pet deterrent spray cans like this.

6. Nail caps like Soft Paws

Nail caps are soft vinyl nail caps that are applied to cats’ newly trimmed nails. The nail caps allow cats to scratch naturally, without harming furniture. Each application lasts about four to six weeks. Some cats take a while to get used to them, but most cat don’t seem to notice they are on. You can use the clear kind, or have fun with colors! Nail caps are only for cats that never go outside. Nail caps for cats are available at most pet supply stores and online here.

Our final tips

Supervision and repetition are key. Supervise your cat so you can praise her when she uses the scratching post, and deter her if she starts scratching something she shouldn’t. Repeat as often as possible! This is the most reliable way we know to train your cat to scratch where you want.

A puppy biting your hand or using your pant cuff as a chew toy  – cute? Not so fast! Teaching a puppy what is OK to bite when they are young is the single most important item for any pup. Mouthing and biting is a normal part of being a puppy, but how cute will that be when they bite your hand – or a child’s hand – when they are an adult dog? Damaging dog bites are not cute!  Puppies must be taught by people to control the force of their biting behavior so that they learn to have a soft mouth if they do accidentally grab onto a human (instead of a toy or food being offered). Then they should be taught to reduce the frequency of puppy mouthing, so that as an adolescent and adult dog they will not harm a person they are playing with  – or their clothing!

The program outlined below is best for puppies who are up to about 18 weeks, while they still have their baby teeth, who have not yet learned to control their playful biting. If your puppy is under 6 months and not biting too hard (already has some self-taught bite inhibition), it can still be used – but for dogs older than 6 months that are play biting you, please consult a professional dog trainer.

For this program, it is important that EVERYONE who interacts with your dog, (e.g. everyone in your household and any visitors) follows the same rules. Children should be closely supervised to ensure that they are following the rules, too!

This puppy program is broken down into three steps, to be followed in order:

1. No painful bites
2. No pressure with teeth
3. No mouthing at all

Puppies normally develop bite inhibition through interaction with their litter mates. When a puppy bites another puppy too hard, the second puppy will yelp and discontinue playing. In this way the first puppy learns not to bite so hard. This technique has you take the place of littermates, and teach in much the same way.

1. No painful bites.
In the same way you as humans must act like fellow littermate and let your dog know when he has bitten you too hard. In the first phase of training, if the puppy puts his mouth and/or teeth on you and doesn’t bite down, you can immediately redirect their mouth on to a toy and praise. BUT if the puppy uses pressure (they usually will at some point, they are testing everything out when they are young) so that you are feeling a pinch or more: yelp like a puppy just enough so your puppy notices – and then walk away and ignore him for about a minute.

Dogs vary in their sensitivity, so it is important that your yelp volume and intensity is appropriate for your particular puppy. If when you yelp your pup doesn’t seem to notice, or immediately comes back to bite you again, then next time try a louder yelp and move away more quickly. Similarly, make sure that you do not startle your puppy too much. If your pup cowers or runs away tail tucked between his legs when you yelp, then you are most likely yelping too loudly; next time try a quieter yelp. When you return after the minute of ignoring them, make sure you have a toy ready so they can bite the toy, which is good! Reward that good behavior with lots of attention and praise.

NOTE: Ignoring means no looking at your dog, no speaking to your dog and no touching your dog! If necessary you can leave the room for that minute (a ‘time out’) so that he has no chance of play-biting you while you are ignoring him.

It may be tempting to say an angry “no” and/or push the puppy away. However, this is giving them attention – even if it is “negative” attention. Attention is a reward! You don’t want to reward the undesired behavior.

2. No teeth on you.
Once your dog has learned that painful bites are unacceptable and has stopped doing them, you can progress to teaching that any pressure of his teeth against your skin is unacceptable. At this point, the yelp is NOT appropriate. If the puppy puts his mouth on you with no teeth pressure, either redirect onto a toy immediately, or (better) get up and away from puppy to ignore for 30 seconds, then return with toy to play again.

3. No mouth on you at all.
Once your dog has learned that he should not put his teeth on you, you can progress to training your dog that any mouthing of you or your clothing is unacceptable by stopping the game or attention when he mouths you.

Depending on the age and temperament of your puppy, the time it takes to reach step three will vary from a week or two to a few months. Here are some guidelines to help speed the process along:

• Never hit your dog (his nose or any other part of him) in response to his mouthing or play biting! Not only is this unnecessary but also it will likely encourage him to continue biting you, either in play or in self-defense.
• Do not forget to provide appropriate chew toys and bones for your dog and praise him for chewing on these. In this way your dog will learn not only what is UNACCEPTABLE but also what is ACCEPTABLE in terms of using his mouth.
• You may find it helpful to use a taste deterrent (available from pet shops) on your hands or clothing while you are going through this program. First make sure that the product is actually distasteful to your dog (some dogs like the taste of taste deterrents).
• Make sure your puppy is getting sufficient exercise both mental and physical. Play biting can be a result of being bored and having pent up energy.

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