Category: Behavior

If your kitten’s giving you the cold shoulder, here are some do’s and don’ts that will help you make friends with your feline…

Do hold kitty often. Pick her up gently and cradle her until she relaxes.

Don’t make loud noises or use sudden movements. Do move slowly as you approach, and get down on her level when possible.

Do feed at set times, so your kitten will learn to associate you with food. As you set the bowl in front of her, talk to your kitty sweetly, and gently pet her. Then, allow her to quietly eat.

Do keep a supply of toys on hand so you can play with your pet. It’s a fun way to bond. But don’t engage in aggressive play.

Do be patient! With a little TLC, it’s a safe bet Whiskers will warm up to you.

 

You also might like this article: Bringing Home Your New Cat or Kitten

Happily, housetraining your new dog or puppy can take patience and time, but it is usually not complicated! We have lots of experience from housetraining many foster dogs and puppies, and helping new adopters to easily and kindly train their new canine family member to take care of ‘business’ in the appropriate potty spot. We prefer the term “housetraining” to “housebreaking” because you really are training your puppy or dog to go where you want – hopefully without having to break any bad habits! Here are the basic steps to housetraining your dog or puppy:

1. SUPERVISE
Keep your dog under constant supervision while inside – if you must take your eyes away even for a second, confine your dog either in a crate (proper crate training is needed), or in a room with a hard-surfaced floor where accidents may be easily cleaned up, or outside in a secure area. With some dogs and in some homes its best to “tether” them to you, keeping them on a leash attached to you at all times. Close doors or block off carpeted rooms and rooms with rugs that can’t be taken up.

2. PICK A SPOT
It is easiest for a dog to learn to go in one specific spot, rather than just outside. Pick a “potty” spot, be it in your yard, a grassy area out front, or a corner of your patio. Most dogs prefer porous surfaces (dirt/grass/gravel/carpet/newspaper) if you have a bit of what the dog has gone on before, you can place it where you want the dog to go.

3. MAKE A ROUTINE
In the beginning, the more often you go to the potty spot, the better you chances of success! Put your dog and yourself on a firm daily schedule of sleeping, feeding and play/exercise, and your dog will start to go to the bathroom on a schedule. And you can make sure he’s at the right spot when the time comes! A typical schedule would include going to the potty spot first thing when you wake up, after breakfast, then at set intervals throughout the day. Two hours apart is great. Longer times will work, it will just take longer for your dog to learn to physically be able to hold it for longer periods.

Take your dog to his potty spot at the times you’ve set and wait (on a leash is often best). Allow the dog to circle and sniff, but don’t encourage him to play…this is serious business time! Be patient and wait for at least five minutes. If he starts to relieve himself, praise quietly until he is finished, then praise him very enthusiastically and reward him with a game or food treat. If he doesn’t go, it’s back to supervision until the next set time. Continue with the routine, and once he’s going when you take him out, gradually increase the time between visits to the potty spot. When you’re down to three times a day and no more accidents inside (anywhere from two to six weeks), you’ve housetrained your dog.

4. LEARN THE COMMAND
A phrase like “Get Busy” or “Go Potty” (or anything else you prefer) can really help your dog to understand when and where to go the bathroom. Use it just like you use any verbal command – like “Sit,” you say it before you want your dog to do it, and then if he does, give him lots of praise and treats. It won’t work to say it too many times in a row (two or three is enough), and should be said in a happy tone of voice, never as a punishment. Also, if you catch your dog in the act of “getting busy” in the correct spot, you can say “Get busy!! Good dog! Get busy! Good good!!” so they associate that phrase with what they are doing.

5. REWARD
If you see your dog about to go, or in the middle of relieving himself indoors, you can say ‘NO’ firmly, but do not raise your voice or yell. Then, immediately take him to your chosen place outside and reward him – praise, treats or play, which ever he most enjoys. Although he has done nothing to be praised for, it is essential that he associate going to that place with reward. If you have caught him in time he will still need to go. If he does go, lots of praise and rewards!

6. PUNISHMENT?
The worst thing you can do is punish your dog for ‘accidents’ that you discover after the fact. Dogs cannot make a connection with punishment for something they did in the past. Some owners will say, “Oh, but he knows he has done wrong because if I show him the mess he looks guilty.” The dog has simply learned that if humans are present and there is a mess on the floor, he is likely to be told off or punished, and yes he will cringe or cower down if you yell. He has not learned not to make the association – and not to make the mess in the first place.

Also… Yelling, making a loud noise with pennies in a can, swatting your dog with a newspaper, pushing your dog’s nose in his mess… aside from being inhumane, they often have the effect of making the dog afraid of you… or afraid of going in front of you. Then, housebreaking will take even longer, or may never happen. This is usually what has happened to dogs that go in the house only when left alone, or in a back room when you aren’t watching. Positive reinforcement is the fastest, easiest way to train. Punishment is the slowest and least-pleasant way to get a dog to do what you want, and often doesn’t work at all, especially for housebreaking!

7. CLEAN
When or if your pooch has an accident inside your home, thoroughly clean by using biological washing powder solution or a specially formulated enzyme product to remove all traces of the smell. If possible, keep your dog away from these areas until the training is complete. If they keep going on the same spot, put a tarp-covered chair or other pee-proof object in front of or on top of that spot – or lock them out of that room until they are solidly housetrained.

These steps do work quickly for most dogs. However, some dogs or puppies, like those from pet stores and puppymills (where they are forced to go to the bathroom in the same tiny space where they sleep and eat) can be more of a challenge. If your dog is more than 8 months old, and after a month of following these steps you are still having accidents, please consult a professional trainer for assistance. Other reasons why your dog has accidents in the house may include: stress and tension in the household, anxiety (for example, about being left alone or changes in routine), illness and submissive urination. Before beginning any training program, a clean bill of health from your dog’s veterinarian is advised.

Sometimes it feels like it’s taking ‘forever’ and some dogs will make progress and then take a few steps back, but this positive-reinforcement housebreaking method has worked time and time again for many dogs around the world, and it can work for yours, too!

Crate training your new puppy or dog can be a wonderful way to help them become housebroken, while keeping him and your household belongings safe! If the introduction to the crate and use of the crate is done properly, most puppies and even older dogs will enjoy spending time in their special “den”, as can be seen when they go to hang out in their crate even when the door is left open. And, most puppies and dogs will try very hard not to soil where they sleep, which is why a properly sized crate can be such a help when housetraining. A puppy mill or puppy store dog may have lost this instinct because of being forced to sleep and stand in the same area where they potty, so crate training will often not work as quickly for them. This blog article is more directed at younger dogs and puppies, but much The keys to successful crate-training of a happy puppy are proper crate selection, introduction, and use – and can be applied for any age of dog!

Please: Never use a crate to punish. Going in the crate and spending time in the crate should always be a happy, positive experience, for you and your puppy!

How to select a crate

Size:
A crate should be large enough so your puppy or dog can lie down and turn around in a tight circle. If it is big enough to lie down in, it should be big enough to sit in without their head hitting the top, too. It is also important not to choose a crate that is too large to provide a cozy “den” feeling.  If you have a puppy that will grow into a large dog, I suggest buying a full-size crate that will fit him as an adult, and use puppy chew-safe material (like cinder blocks) to block off a section just big enough for your puppy’s current size. Then the crate can be expanded as puppy grows. There are also wire crates sold with interior barriers that can be moved and then removed to make the space the right size.

Type:
There are many models of crates, including fancy wooden ones that look like furniture, steel wire folding styles, and the molded plastic airplane travel variety. For all pets consider: 1.) Gaps:  make sure to select a crate that your pet’s paw can’t possibly squeeze through and get stuck. 2.) Strength: Many puppies and large breeds are very strong chewers. Pick a material that matches your pet’s chewing strength Steel wire strength varies between brands and models. Wood or wicker is not advised for a puppy or dog that is not already crate trained.

Cost:
Crates can cost anywhere from $30 to $200 and up, depending on the size and durability.

Where do I put the crate?

Many people put the crate in their bedroom where they can reassure the puppy during the night. Some people prefer to put the crate where they won’t hear puppy crying. There is nothing wrong with either plan. However, its going to be easier for puppy to get used to being in the crate if he’s sleeping with his new family (next to the bed) like he was when he was sleeping with his mom and littermates. Easier for puppy, but might be harder for the humans in the house! Did I mention earplugs yet? Personally, I like to be where I can hear if the puppy’s complaining cries turn into actually “I managed to get my paw stuck in the wire” painful cries for help. For me, a night or two of lost sleep is worth their safety.

Get ready to introduce puppy to the crate for the first time

You and your puppy should think of the crate as his special place where he is safe and happy. Some owners prefer to call it “your den” or “your house” or whatever helps you to think of it as a safe, calm place.

First, give your puppy a nice long exercise and play session, until he seems tired… or you are tired! Let them drink at the end of the play session.

Second, take up all food or water 30 minutes to one hour prior to crating your puppy, and make that time a quieter “winding-down” time with you.

Third, take the puppy outside to give him a chance to go to the bathroom. This is not more play time. I like to have puppy on a leash and walk in small circles, encouraging him with verbal praise for any sniffing, and use the training word you’ve chosen to get them to go potty. If you leave him outside alone, you will not know if the puppy has gone, and also you might miss a chance to praise the puppy for going to the bathroom outside.

Then you are ready to introduce the puppy to the crate!

Introduce puppy to the crate: first day trial runs

The first day, start out with a few “trial runs” of puppy going in the crate, before shutting the door. Ideally, you will never force a puppy into the crate. In a perfect world, you will have at least a full day to get puppy used to going into the crate. How you get puppy into the crate will depend on the age of the puppy.

Very young puppies (3 months and under) can usually just be gently picked up and placed inside, or lured directly into the crate with a treat thrown in. Give lots of verbal praise when the puppy is in the crate, like “What a good puppy in the crate! Good puppy!” Use a calm but happy voice. Even if the puppy leaves right away, you should have time for at least one “Good puppy!”

4-6 month old puppies and older: first try luring them by throwing in a treat or toy. If the puppy will not go all the way into the crate, you may need to create a “trail” of treats leading into the back of the crate. If regular treats are not enough of a lure, you might need to try “special” treats such as bits of hotdog or chicken. If that fails, you may need to wait, withhold treats and food for the next few hours, and then try again. Then at feeding time, put the bowl in the middle of the crate, close the puppy with you in the room with the crate, and sit and wait. Even one paw in the crate is a step forward! Verbally praise this step. At the next feeding time, again try the trail of treats, and place the food bowl in the back of the crate, and sit and wait. At this point you are letting the puppy go into the crate, eat, and leave, so do not close the door. Then, in a few hours, try tossing the treats in again.

Closing the door

Once the puppy goes willingly into the crate for a treat tossed in (or to get to his food bowl in the back) a few times in a row, you are then ready to try closing the door for a few short sessions. Fill a hollow rubber toy with wet and dry dog food. Let the puppy smell the food in the toy, and then place the food-stuffed toy in the back of the crate. (Do not use a rawhide or any other toy they cannot have safely when unsupervised.)  If the puppy doesn’t go in to get the toy, toss the treats in the crate or place a few treats in the food bowl (that they have been going in the crate to get) and softly close the door once they are inside. Give lots of praise, then calmly walk away. I find it best to walk out of the room and close the door leaving it open a crack so I can look in without them seeing me hopefully, and see how they are doing.

If you have a whole day, you can feed them all their rations of food in the toy inside the crate. So, 3 times a day on the first day puppy is going into the crate for 10-15 minutes at a time (depends on how good a toy-destuffer they are) and being let out just a few minutes after they finish the food in the toy… if they are quiet… see the next section!

Don’t give in to whining or barking

This can be the hardest part of crate training – for the humans involved! But you never ever want to let puppy out of the crate when he is  whining, crying or barking. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT IN THE BEGINNING. If you give in to the puppy’s noise and open the crate, he will learn “TO GET THEM TO OPEN THE CRATE, I MAKE NOISE” and will keep trying that technique if it worked once! If you had puppy out for potty, puppy was fed, and you chose a safe crate where he could not get injured, there is no reason he needs to come out when he is crying. If you are ready to take the puppy out during one of your day one introduction crate session, wait until he is quiet!! If you walk towards the crate and he starts barking or loudly whining, you are going to have to walk away, and wait for him to be quiet (which will usually last only for a few seconds), and then run quickly to open the door during that quiet moment. Earplugs can help humans get through this, as it’s hard when you love your puppy to hear them crying! But remember, you are doing this to have a safe place to leave your puppy when you cannot watch him.

When to use the crate

The brings us to when your puppy will using his crate. After the first introduction day, your puppy should take all of his naps in the crate and sleep there at night. Puppies should never be crated for more than 8 hours at night, or during the day for more than the same number of hours as they are months old (so a 2 month old puppy should only be crated during the day for 2 hours at a time without a potty/play break.) The remainder of the time, the puppy should be in the company of his new owners (on a hard surface floor until housebroken), being cuddled, played with, socialized, loved and cared for in his new home.

How long to crate?

After training that first night, put the puppy back in the crate at bedtime with an empty kong. Since the puppy has to physically have his muscles “learn” to be able to hold going to the bathroom, that first night “sleeping” duration might only be 4-5 hours for a very young puppy, and can gradually be increased to 8 hours. Puppy bladders and bowels are just not mature enough to hold it much longer than that. However, some puppies simply cannot go longer than 2-3 hours, even at night, without urinating. If the puppy has been crated for at least 2 hours, and is circling and whimpering he may have to eliminate, so take him outside. Keep these sessions short and quiet. Do not socialize with the puppy and once he has eliminated, give him lots of praise and then take him right back inside and crate him again. Remember, just like with babies, mornings come very early with young puppies. Around 4 months of age the puppy’s bladder should start to mature and puppy will start sleeping longer nights. Just remember: Once you have put puppy in the crate don’t go back to him for at least 2 hours. If you do, you are teaching him that making lots of noise will get him what he wants – your company. Puppy must learn that nights are for sleeping and his sleeping place is the crate. Once he learns this lesson – and it will take about 2 to 4 nights – he will begin to look on the crate as his special place. One day you will look for puppy and find him, curled up in the crate where he went by himself to catch a few zzs!

Once you have gotten your puppy crate-trained, your house will be safe from puppy curiosity chewing, and your puppy will be safe from the myriad dangers that lie in wait for lonely, bored and curious puppies. Think of it as a crib or playpen for your baby dog. Keep your home and your puppy safe – use a crate!
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Did you adopt a new cat, and discover that he or she has been spraying? Perhaps your current cat suddenly started? Figuring out why a cat is spraying (territorially using urine to mark a surface) can take quite a bit of detective work, since unfortunately, cats don’t speak human! Spraying once or twice a year isn’t cause for concern, although it’s not much fun to clean up. But if your cat sprays more than once a week, you have a behavior that could soon become a hard-to-break habit. But don’t worry, just read on for our step-by-step tips for stopping your cat from spraying.

First, it can help if you know the difference between spraying, and a cat who is going to the bathroom outside their litter box.  Spraying (by a male or female cat) is when they “spray” their urine onto a surface – typically a vertical surface, while standing straight up. So, if you find urine on surface at the height of your cat’s nose… you know its spraying. BUT sometimes they will spray by squatting too, so if you find the urine on a horizontal surface, you can’t assume its not spraying. In either case, you can follow the steps below, and those outlined in our other blog article linked at the end of this one.

1. Spaying or Neutering. Spraying is often a hormonal response, and spaying or neutering can reduce or eliminate this response, at any age. But the younger the cat is fixed, the less likely they are to spray at a later age. The American Veterinary Medical Association supports “pediatric” spay/neuter which is 8 weeks to 4 months of age, as studies have shown no adverse effects to pediatric spay/neuter, and many benefits, including reduced likelihood of spraying. Hormone levels in mature pets gradually subside after the surgery, so  spay/neuter of a sexually mature pet (6 months and older) may take 4-6 weeks to affect spraying behavior.

2. Vet checkup. You want to rule out a medical cause. Even a previously healthy cat can develop an infection. One of the most common ways for a cat to try to communicate  that they are unhappy or uncomfortable – and are urinating outside  their litterbox. Ask your vet to do BOTH types of urine-specific tests: a urinalysis for infection, and a urine CULTURE for bacterial overgrowth. Medical treatment is often the cure for this spraying cause.

3. Routine. Did something change in your cat’s routine? Are they newly adopted, did you get another new pet, did someone new move in or out, did you get a new job or change your schedule, change litter brands, or even rearrange or get new furniture? Cats often get stressed by change, and spraying can be one way they show their stress. Time and resuming a routine are often the solutions for this spraying cause. See also “stress” below.

4. Territory. If a new cat moves in next door, or a new person (or baby) moves into your home, they may spray to mark their territory. If it something outside your home, block access to where the cat is seeing/smelling that intruder – lock them out of that room, close the window shades, install a humane motion-activated ‘scarecrow’ sprinkler to keep intruders away from your home. If the ‘intruder’ is inside your home, see “stress” below.

5. Stress. Spraying a calming synthetic cat hormone (one popular brand name is Feliway) all over and around where the cat has been spraying may be the fix for this cause. They also offer a plugin version that many cat owners feel works better, using one in every room. Vets can also prescribe anti-stress medication – often referred to as “kitty prozac” – that can help destress the cat so it stops spraying, giving you time to clean and get them back on their routine as a permanent spraying fix if stress is part of or the total cause. Also, ask your vet about the treat chew version or transdermal cream version so you don’t have to add to your cat’s stress by trying to get him to eat a pill, though some cats will easily eat up pills wrapped in soft treats.

6. Smells. Cats are very sensitive to smells, and may be spraying to cover up an unwanted smell. This is common when the cat is spraying on the trash can, in the bathroom, on a particular carpet that may have a smell embedded in the fibers that we can’t smell. Removing the “smelly” object to a place the cat can’t get to is one solution, cat urine enzyme cleanser soaking or bleach soaking (if its beach-safe) is another.

7. New Pet in home. This is a combination of change in routine, sharing a territory, stress, and new smells! Using a combination of all the above, and giving the pets separate time in their own rooms, and for cats/rabbits with separate litter boxes that are all their own, can do the trick to stop this reason for spraying.

If none of the above tips help, you may want to follow the step-by-step confinement method that we outlined in our Help My Cat Stopped Using The Litterbox! blog article.