Month: December 2010

Generally speaking, the average cat’s life span is twelve to fifteen years. But in a healthy, safe environment and with proper nutrition and good veterinary care, a cat can live to be twenty years of age or more. The oldest cats on record lived well into their thirties.

As a general rule, outdoor cats don’t fare as well or live as long as cats kept indoors. It’s often a hard-knock life for outdoor kitties – they risk injury from cars, dogs, predators, and even other cats in the neighborhood. They’re also more likely to pick up contagious diseases that are passed along by other felines. So as a general rule, indoor cats often live longer than their free-roaming counterparts.

Maturing — Aging

How can you tell when your cat is getting old? On the outside, she may look much the same, and she probably still loves to bat her toy mouse around the kitchen floor and take naps sprawled across your hand-knitted heirloom afghan. But inside her body, time may be taking its toll.

However tempting it may be to treat her to table scraps, it’s really not wise. Overfeeding a cat at any age — especially with fatty foods — is actually setting her up for obesity and related health problems in the future.

The Middle Years

You may barely have noticed the subtle changes your cat went through after the first year of her life, but when she approaches her equivalent of human middle age – somewhere between the ages of 8 and 12 – start paying extra attention. Your veterinarian may recommend that you modify your cat’s diet.

The Later Stages

Some veterinarians believe that cats reach their geriatric years around age 12. Other experts are more generous, categorizing cats as being “old” at about 15. When your cat is between the ages of 12 and 15, be on the lookout for behavioral changes. You may notice that she catnaps a lot more. It’s normal for some old cats to sleep more than 18 hours a day.

As a cat ages, her joints may stiffen and become difficult to move, making her lethargic about many types of activities, even her grooming ritual. But before you decide to do a thorough brushing for her, ask your veterinarian to make sure your cat’s not seriously ill — a lack of desire to groom can also be a sign of sickness.

However tempting it may be to treat her to table scraps, it’s really not wise. Overfeeding a cat at any age — especially with fatty foods — is actually setting her up for obesity and related health problems in the future.

Above all, you’ll need to start watching your geriatric cat very closely for hints of illness. After weeks of seeming healthy, a cat suddenly may display signs of being very ill, catching you, the owner, off guard. Too often, pet owners hope a small problem will go away, only to seek their veterinarian’s advice when their cat is beyond help.

The best thing you can do is watch for signs and, if you spot anything amiss, visit your veterinarian.

Bringing home a new kitten is an exciting experience. But before your little ball of fluff crosses the threshold, you’ll need to get a few items that will help make the transition safe, clean and fun. Here’s a checklist:

Collar and ID tag—essential even if kitty stays indoors. Covered litter box, litter, and a good strong scooper, check. Combs and brushes, check. Toys! Catnip mice are surefire fun, and feathered wands can help kitty develop strength and agility. Dried treats for a reward, check. Yummy healthy kitten food? Check. Ceramic or metal food and water bowls, check. A nice cozy bed for napping? … hmm. It might be hard to resist curling up with kitty in your own big bed.

Cats like stability so an environmental or social change may have a pronounced effect on their behavior. Your cat will adapt, but it may take some time.

Tips for Introducing a New Cat to Your Old One

All cats are different. Some are social and will readily accept a new cat. Others are not as social and introducing a new cat may be more challenging. Chances are your cat will react to a newcomer by distancing herself. She may hide for a few days refusing to acknowledge the newcomer, or she may act up in an attempt to persuade the newcomer to retreat. Here are some suggestions that may help you:

• Give your new cat an area where she can retreat if she becomes threatened.
• Putting her in a spare room with the door closed for the first few days will give both cats the chance to adjust to each other’s scents without hurting each other.
• Give your newcomer a litter box in her area along with food and water.

Selecting a New Cat

Introducing a young cat to another young cat is usually relatively easy. If you want to introduce an adult cat, try to find one that has lived with other cats. A cat that is similar in age but of the opposite sex to the resident cat, may be accepted more readily.

Multiple Cat Households

In general, the following combinations in a multiple cat household seem to work best: two kittens; a mature, neutered cat and kitten; or two mature neutered cats (either two females or a male and a female). The most volatile combination seems to be two un-castrated mature male cats.

Consider your current cat’s personality before introducing a new cat. An active cat is more likely to accept a new kitten. A quieter, more reclusive cat might prefer a mature, adult cat as a companion.

If your cats exhibit personality conflicts, you can reduce the tension between family felines by making sure each cat has enough personal space and personal possessions to fulfill her needs.

To avoid territory conflicts between cats, consider placing litter boxes in various locations throughout the house to avoid the exclusion of one cat from another cat’s territory.

Keep scratching posts and beds in several locations to accommodate all the cats in your household.

Allowing your new kitten to sleep with you on her first night home may help her feel more secure. However, while some kittens sleep through the night, others cat nap, waking up periodically all ready to play. If kitty’s nocturnal antics are keeping you from sleeping, you may need to confine her to her own room with safe toys to entertain her. Be prepared for some plaintive meowing. Your kitten has likely never been alone before and that first night can be difficult.

Some cat owners compromise by placing kitty’s bed in their bedroom. This way, she can feel your presence, without actually sharing your bed. But if you go that route, don’t be surprised if a small visitor climbs up in the night.

Even cats that spend most of their time indoors may be exposed to a number of potential hazards. The following list will help keep your home safe and sound for your cat.

1. Be aware of the plants you have in your house and in your yard. The ingestion of a poisonous plant may be fatal.
2. When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Some may only cause a mild stomach upset, while others could cause severe burns of the tongue, mouth, and stomach and may even be fatal.
3. When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your cat. Most bait contains sweet-smelling, inert ingredients, such as jelly, peanut butter, and sugars, which can be very attractive to a cat.
4. Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of a veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly to a cat.
5. Keep all prescriptions and over-the-counter drugs out of the reach of your cat, preferably in closed cabinets. Pain-killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, vitamins, and diet pills are common examples of human medications that could be potentially lethal, even in small dosages.
6. Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene — one or two balls can be life-threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.
7. All automotive products, such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze, should be stored properly. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly to a cat. Wash off any poisonous substance on your cat’s coat or skin before she licks it off and poisons herself. Use cat-safe soap and warm water or give her a complete bath.
8. Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea products are recommended for her. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label instructions. Also, when using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all pets from the area for the time period specified on the container. If you are uncertain about the usage of any product, contact the manufacturer or your veterinarian to clarify the directions BEFORE using the product.
9. When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cat away from the area until the area dries completely. If in doubt, ask the manufacturer whether using the product may be harmful to your cat.
10. Sharp objects such as knives and forks, paper clips, carpet tacks and pins should be kept out of a cat’s reach. Children’s toys and small objects may attract a playful cat and become lodged in her mouth or swallowed. Although kittens are sometimes pictured with a ball of yarn, if ingested, yarn as well as thread and twine could cause serious damage to the intestinal tract.
11. Lead paint should be removed with extreme caution. Cleanup should be prompt and thorough. Other items containing lead accessible to cats include lead-base paint, linoleum, and caulking compounds. Signs of poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, loss of appetite, loss of muscle coordination, blindness and seizures.
12. Outside of the house, make sure your cat is clearly identified whether you use a collar and an identification tag or a more permanent form of identification like tattooing.

A final thought

If you have children, many of the safety measures needed for pets are probably already in place.

Veterinary Technician Virginia Rud of the Minnesota School of Business says that when it comes to protecting a pet during an emergency, it’s critical to plan ahead. She says, “making sure that the whole family is in on the plan, that everyone knows what their part is, is going to make it so much smoother.”

This means keeping a collar and leash; food and water; and your pet’s medical records on hand in case you need to evacuate. Rud also recommends microchips or other permanent identification that won’t be affected if your pet is lost or injured.

During a disaster, emergency personnel may ask neighbors if a pet is inside your home. So consider giving them a list of emergency contacts who can answer questions about your pet in your absence.

Whether your cat is an outdoor cat or kept strictly indoors, she should wear a collar with ID tags at all times. Many an unidentified cat has ended up abandoned in a shelter after a natural disaster such as fire or flood, or even a simple accident such as a door being left open.

Your cat’s collar should fit snugly but not too tightly. You can calculate the correct size by measuring the animal’s neck and adding one or two inches. When you put the collar on your pet, you should be able to slip two fingers comfortably between it and the cat’s neck.

Be sure to get a collar with an elastic panel, or even a breakaway feature. That way your kitty won’t choke or become trapped if her collar gets caught on something.

Some of the following plants can be toxic to your cat. Check with your veterinarian before having them in your home.